There’s something magnificent about of gold chronograph — these wrist-worn stopwatches are amongst the most functional of timepieces, made to capture the cutting edge of motorsports, or help propel man into space. Chronographs are watches of purpose first and foremost. So to craft them in heavy, luxurious gold, reframing them from objects of purpose into ones of status is one of the ultimate power moves. Here are 10 of the best.
Rolex Daytona Ref. 116508 “John Mayer”
Price: $70,000-$75,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 20, Water Resistance: 100, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Yellow Gold
Of the many watches that juxtapose the codes of luxury and utility, few do it, as well as the Rolex Daytona’ John Mayer’ Ref. 116508. Daytona’s already occupy a privileged place in the hierarchy of desirable chronographs in any configuration. Few are more coveted than this yellow gold, green-dialled version from 2016, which became a cult object thanks to a 2019 interview with uber-collector John Mayer on Hodinkee where he referred to the watch as a ‘sleeper hit’. Safe to say that people have woken up to the ample charms of this handsome green and gold beauty, which offers the best of both worlds — a superlative modern Rolex chronograph clad in an old-world feeling yellow gold case, with a precious metal bezel and a colorful dial that has plenty of panache and personality without feeling too over the top. Oh, and the ‘John Mayer’ hype factor doesn’t hurt either.
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Moonshine Gold Ref. 310.60.42.50.99.001
Price: $40,000-$45,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.3mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Yellow Gold
The importance of the Omega Speedmaster in the history of watches is vast. It is so much so that within the long archive of this storied model are plenty of iconic models and references that go a long way to making collecting and appreciating Speedmasters so rewarding. One of the most significant historical Speedmasters were the very first gold Speedmasters, made in a special production run of 1014 watches in1969, with personalised pieces gifted to the Apollo Astronauts (as well as President Nixon and Vice President Agnew). Luckily, for those of us who haven’t travelled to space, Omega recreated this watch in 2019 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Moon Landing. Using Omega’s Moonshine gold, which offers a softer hue of yellow gold, this watch is a careful tribute to the original; the ceramic bezel is just the right shade of burgundy, making this watch one of the most special versions of the Speedmaster in the modern era.
Patek Philippe Chronograph Salmon Ref. 5172G
Price: $65,000-$70,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.3mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 25M, Crystal: Sapphire Crystal, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: White Gold
Just because a chronograph is gold doesn’t mean it has to be flashy or ostentatious on the wrist. For proof of this concept, you need to look no further than the Patek Philippe Chronograph Salmon Ref. 5172G. Released with a rich (and on-trend) salmon dial back in 2022, this manually-wound chronograph is less high octane and more high society, thanks to the refined syringe hands and deceptively simple applied Arabic numerals, as well as the gorgeous lines of the 41mm white gold case. The case design is absolutely refined, with a double bezel and triple-stepped lugs to create an Art Deco ambience. The dial is quite restrained, too, with twin registers, no date and plenty of pleasing symmetry. It’s watches like these that prove Patek Philippe is the master of the game.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1R
Price: $180,000-$200,000, Case Size: 43.5mm, Thickness: 12.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.3mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold
Of course, Patek Philippe’s mastery extends beyond classical chronographs and into more muscular interpretations of the trope. The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1R is the walking embodiment of this. The rose gold Nautilus case on a rose gold bracelet doesn’t have the most subtle of looks, but it sure is impressive. It’s also one of the more visually balanced chronograph designs out there too, with the caliber CH 28-520 C offering a flyback chronograph with registers that are stacked, allowing for a cleaner look, and leaving plenty of room for the iconic horizontal stripes of the Nautilus dial — here in smokey black.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Frosted White Gold Ref. 26239BC.GG.1224BC.02
Price: $210,000- $220,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold
Humanity has been using gold as adornment for thousands of years. Given the enduring popularity of gold it can be hard to bring something new to the table when it comes to finish or treatment — but that hasn’t stopped Audemars Piguet. Frosted Gold is a technique from Florentine jewelry that jeweler Carolina Bucci introduced to watch cases. From a distance, it resembles a sprinkling of diamond dust, but in reality, the effect is achieved through repeated micro-hammering of the precious metal case. Initially, it appeared in limited editions, but it was so popular that it’s now part of the Le Brassus brand’s regular rotation. As you can see on this white gold chronograph, the frosted finish adds plenty of drama to the original precious metal.
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph Ref. 26393CR.OO.A002KB.01
Price: $27,000-$30,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White and Rose Gold
When Audemars Piguet released the Code 11:59 collection five years ago, it’s fair to say that the determinedly non-Royal Oak-looking watch didn’t receive the warmest of welcomes. Of course, now that we’re all more familiar with this sophisticated and complex collection, we’ve come to realise just how special it is. The complex case straddles the sporty elegant divide perfectly and is the perfect platform for complications, like this chronograph. In fact, it was in the Code 11:59 case that Audemars Piguet chose to debut the new Caliber 4401, a top-of-the-line modern commercial chronograph movement. Of course, the sexy vertical brushed dial and ceramic case middle also add a lot to the charm of this very contemporary chronograph.
F.P. Journe Centigraphe LineSport Rose Gold
Price: $100,000-$120,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: 55.1mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Rose Gold
The watches of François-Paul Journe cannot be mistaken for anything else. They possess an undeniable style that manages to be both classic and unlike anything else on the market. And while the marque is best known for its dressier creations, the same rationale applies to their sportier releases, like this rose gold Centigraphe Line sport. Taking the incredible movement from the Centigraphe — a triple register chronograph that records accuracy up to one-hundredth of a second and features an unusual but ergonomic rocker-style pusher — and wraps it up in a 44mm rose gold case. Of course, this watch is far from chunky, with a comparatively slender 11mm case height, and a proportionally slim sporty bracelet.
Richard Mille RM72-01RG Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Price: $250,000-$280,000, Case Size: 38mm x 47.3mm, Thickness: 17mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.3mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold
Richard Mille is a known master of technical and complex materials. Carbon fibres, Quartz TPT, intense ceramics — these materials are Richard Mille’s stock in trade. But even if the brand does focus firmly on the future, it still respects the power of gold. Which is why the Richard Mille RM72-01RG Automatic Flyback Chronograph still packs an impressive punch in gold. Of course, the mechanics are more of a focus here than the famous tonneau case, the intensely complicated CRMC-1, a 4Hz chronograph capable of 24 hours of timing, in addition to a big date display and an indicator that tells you if your chronograph is running. All are perfectly framed by one of the most distinctively shaped gold cases out there.
A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Dufour Rose Gold Ref. 403.031
Price: $140,000-$160,000, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 3 ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Rose Gold
When Philippe Dufour — widely acknowledged as the greatest living watchmaker — says that a watch is the best serially-produced wristwatch, you know its good. The watch in question is, ofg course, the A. Lange & Sohne Datograph ‘Dufour’ Rose Gold Ref. 403.031, a watch Dufour bought with his own money. A large part of the appeal of this watch is the incredible L951.01 calibre, one of the most impressive modern chronographs, and one which began development only one year after the Lange brand itself was revived in 1990. One detail that is particularly notable is the alternating Roman and baton markers. So much has already been said about this watch but, at the end of the day, if it’s good enough for Philippe Dufour, what more do you need to know?
Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph Ref. W1525851
Price: $45,000-$50,000, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: White Gold
The Cartier Tortue is having a good year in 2024, thanks to its reissue as part of the Privé collection at Watches & Wonders, so now is a great time to explore the earlier Cartier Privé Collection Paris (CPCP) Tortue models. As you’d expect from a Cartier chronograph, this is an elegant affair in white gold with a refined white dial with blue markings. Another particularly cool detail about this era of Tortue Monopoussoir is the movement, which was developed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a firm founded by horological luminaries Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet, and Francois-Paul Journe. Talk about pedigree.
Make sure to check out our other buying guides, including our 34 favorite chronograph watches and our 30 favorite gold watches.