As years-long waitlists and sky-high hype crash into a changing market filled with alternatives, it really begs the question: is the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona still worth chasing? While Rolex accessibility fatigue has worn some enthusiasts out, others remain as devout and committed as ever, always eager to bend the knee to the crown. But why is that exactly? What is it about such a simple watch that keeps hooking far more buyers than there are available watches? Let’s dig into it.
History
It would be foolish of me to run in circles, recounting the same story we’ve told a number of times before — most recently in our review of the Le Mans Daytona (found here). Yes, its origins date back to the ‘60s, with the legendary Zenith Daytona debuting in 1988. I will say that it’s a bit of a misnomer to dub it the Zenith Daytona, as Rolex modified the caliber so substantially that it’s hardly a Zenith once cased up. Between a drop in beat rate (the El Primero runs at five hertz and the Rolex variant steps down to four) and other in-house modifications including assembly, regulation, and so on, this is as much a Zenith Daytona as a Pagani Huayra is a Mercedes AMG Huayra. An unpopular opinion, perhaps, but something to keep in mind.
The first modern iteration powered by a fully in-house caliber arrived in 2000, with the caliber 4130, which remained in production through to 2023 with the arrival of the watch we see here today. The aesthetic changes between references are subtle, and changes to performance of the caliber are effectively non-existent, as you’ll see below.
Design Details
To be quite honest, you really need to look at the Daytona 126500LN directly beside the 116500LN to properly spot all of the differences. The most obvious perhaps, are the broadening of the ceramic bezel insert, and the slimming of its applied hour indices. The tracks for its subdials have also been thinned in a manner that suits the smaller indices. From there, a keen eye will note that its lugs and crown guards are a touch thicker, which in turn extend the pushers outwards, reaching closer towards the vertical line of its crown. This is all fussy detail work, but it yields what Rolex considers to be an even more refined design. The changes to the case profile feel a bit like a mild version of the Maxi case upgrade the Submariner went through some time ago, and those who loved the slender feel of the outgoing reference are more likely to notice the case profile adjustments. To those who’ve never experienced either, though, we’re talking about a level of fine tuning that is more reflected in the change in reference numbers than anything else.
Inner Workings
Alongside the cosmetic changes to its exterior, the new Daytona also received a technical update to its caliber. The arrival of the 4131 is in essence the same transformation we’ve been seeing across the Rolex model range with their 32xx caliber range. A change to its overall finishing — including Côte de Genève stripes across its mainplates, and a swanky new winding rotor — are a part of the package, though those are only visible on the special Le Mans version, as well as the platinum-cased references. At a technical level, the ball bearing setup of its winding rotor has been beefed up, and Rolex’s new Chronergy escapement has been fitted. Unlike its counterparts, its power reserve has not been increased, though the Daytona has had a 72-hour reserve since the introduction of the 4130 in 2000. Of course, the brand-standard -2/+2 accuracy promise is maintained for the new Daytona, just like all of Rolex’s creations.
Personality
It’s hard to really categorize the new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126500LN, or any other modern steel Daytona for that matter, as anything other than ubiquitous. That’s not meant as a slight in any way though! Is the Daytona iconic? Obviously yes, but it’s also the status watch that surfaces in more than its fair share of professional circles. Business owners, CEOs, executives, and otherwise well-heeled folks love the Daytona nearly as much as they love their ability to acquire watches of this ilk that remain inaccessible to anyone that doesn’t have a deep Rolex purchase history. That said, that’s far from the only reason that the Daytona is coveted. It’s the Rolex 24h of Daytona prize watch, it’s the famed Paul Newman, and it’s the chronograph that you can pick out of a crowd from fifty feet away. It hasn’t been to the moon, but it never really needed to. No matter what the market does, it will always be the “hero Rolex”, and there will always be more demand for it than there is supply.
Versus the Competition
Here’s where things get a bit interesting. Decades ago, for the type, style, and quality of watch, the steel Daytona didn’t really face a ton of competition. Those looking for a clean, crisp, and simple chronograph with a 3-6-9 subdial layout didn’t have many options. These days, however, with the expanse of in-house caliber manufacturers and broader market growth, it’s a very different story. Especially when you start looking at market value rather than retail pricing, you’ll notice the field starts to widen quickly.
Starting with the closest apples-to-apples aesthetically, the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Sport is, in essence, an affordable Daytona lookalike for less money. The El Primero caliber is a tough one to beat, and mating its design DNA with a ceramic tachymeter bezel insert ticks all of the boxes for those wanting that Daytona energy without bowing to the crown.
Stepping a bit out into left field in terms of design is the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph in green. Yes, it’s vastly different aesthetically, but the quality and legacy factor you get out of the AP is right in line with the Rolex. The finishing of its case and caliber surpass that of the Daytona, not to mention how stunning that guilloché dial looks in natural light. The fact that these two watches stand at around the same price on the secondary market is absolutely baffling.
Last but not least is an equally “hot ticket” watch with at least its share of common traits; the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph in steel can be had for new Daytona dollars as well. Aside from its date window, it delivers the same chrono subdial layout, screw-down pushers, and exceptionally crafted caliber, plus it has the ability to swap between the steel bracelet and its leather and rubber straps in a matter of seconds. Though they don’t have quite the same feel on the wrist, they’re definitely both worthy of consideration.
Final Thoughts
It’s challenging to not be a little hard on a watch that’s been at the top of the desirability food chain for as long as the Daytona has. Especially as someone who has a soft spot for indies and obscurity, examining the Daytona is like going back to a Whopper after years in small craft burger joints. That sounds harsher than it’s meant, but the reality is that the Whopper has been around forever, it’s consistent, and it delivers exactly what it’s been promising year after year. If I talk about my local burger joint when traveling halfway across the country no one will care, but everyone will know what I’m talking about when I say the words Burger King, and if I find one, I know exactly what I’m getting. There’s something to be said for legacy, after all.
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