The Patek Philippe Nautilus is a modern horological icon. The original Ref. 3700 was released in 1976, during the rise of integrated bracelet stainless steel sports watches. This particular reference not only filled a hole in Patek’s catalog, but also provided customers with a more durable and casual Patek Philippe. Indeed, the 3700 was dramatically larger and bolder than the rest of the Patek Philippe catalog at the time, providing a new aesthetic to Patek collectors. Since its original release, the Nautilus has gained a cult following, which in turn developed into mass market acceptance, and then into a mainstream icon.

As the model became increasingly popular, Patek Philippe’s historical bread and butter of complicated, precious metal timepieces began to fade in the background from the perspective of the public eye (but not to the brand). Maybe because of this, Patek discontinued the 5711, removing the famed stainless steel time only watch from the catalog. Replacing it was the 5811, a white gold Nautilus with 30 meters of water resistance. The brand has made statements that it wants to return public focus to precious metal and complicated watches. But, in addition to focusing on more traditional and classic designs, Patek Philippe has also continued to create popular sport watches, except in precious metal and with complications. This is certainly true with the 5980/60G-001.

History

With a rich brand history dating back to 1839, Patek Philippe truly stepped out of their comfort zone with the 1976 release of the original Nautilus Ref. 3700. After the release of the Royal Oak 4 years earlier, Gerald Genta brought the design sketches of the Nautilus to Patek Philippe in 1974. The original 3700 was quite large at 42mm wide, larger than the Royal Oak of the time. Similar to other integrated bracelet sport watches from the time, widespread acceptance was slow, but mid-size models and smaller quartz models in the 1980’s garnered more acceptance of the design, which allowed it to grow in popularity. 

To mark the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus, in 2006 Patek Philippe unveiled the 5980/1A, adding a chronograph complication to the model. But the 5980/1A was discontinued in 2014, ending all stainless steel Nautilus chronograph models. Between 2014 and 2024, the only 5980 models available in Patek’s catalog were made in rose gold and two-tone (rose gold and steel). However, 2024 saw the return of a white gold 5980 with the 5980/60G-001. With a blue dial (albeit lighter in hue), the new 5980/60G blends contemporary design with precious metal and a chronograph. 

Design Details

As discussed earlier, the 5980/60G’s blue dial is different from the conventional darker blue dial of other Nautiluses. Instead, it is a lighter, almost gray shade that makes the watch look even sportier than the original. All the dial text is white, including the hour markers, hands, and sundial markings. This limited color palette really highlights the dial color, and keeps reading the time, chronograph and date functions easy. 

The case design remains unchanged from previous 5980 models. Instead of being made of steel or rose gold, it is white gold. The case measures 40.5mm wide, 12.2mm thick, and is water resistant to 30 meters. 

Instead of going into an integrated white gold bracelet, Patek Philippe has made an interesting strap choice for the 5980/60G, it might even be the most interesting part of the watch. The denim patterned calfskin matches the color of the dial, providing a very cohesive look. But the embossed denim look gives the watch an even more of a casual appearance, something you generally don’t think of when thinking about a Patek Philippe with complications.

Inner Workings 

The Nautilus Ref. 5980/60G runs on the in-house automatic Caliber CH-28-520 C/522 movement. It includes a fly-back chronograph with a 60 minute and 12 hour mono-counter, as well as a date display at 3 o’clock. This unique chronograph layout allows for a cleaner dial appearance, and an easier to read chronograph function, as all the information is located in one place on the dial. The movement measures 30mm in diameter, has 35 jewels, a 21k gold winding rotor, beats at 28,800 bph, and has a 45-55 hour power reserve range. The movement is finished and regulated to the standards of the Patek Philippe seal, which means completed watches must be within -1/+2 seconds a day of accuracy. 

Personality

Around the time that it was announced that Patek Philippe was discontinuing the 5711, Thierry Stern made statements asserting that the brand’s focus has been, and should continue to be, precious metal watches. He also voiced concern over the Nautilus, and other stainless steel models, being overwhelmingly important for the brand, when the brand’s heritage was built on complicated timepieces. As already stated, the 5980/60G is a model meant to carry customers that were previously only interested in stainless steel sport models over to complicated precious metal watches. Because of this, the 5980/60G reads as very contemporary and casual, despite being offered in white gold and with a chronograph complication. I imagine the bulk of the buyers of the 5980/60G at retail are clients that have an existing history with Patek Philippe, but are likely still relatively young. They may have started when you could feasibly buy an Aquanaut at retail, but now have a number of models, ranging from sporty to more formal. The 5980/60G slots into casual and business casual attire, making it a great model for those with less formal taste, but a budding appreciation for Patek’s heritage. 

Versus The Competition

When thinking of alternatives for the 5980/60G, there are other precious metal, blue dialed chronographs from collectible brands that have gained popularity. However, if it is the denim look one is after, there are other, more affordable options available. 

Exchanging one Geneva-based brand for another, and exchanging gold for platinum, the Rolex Platinum Daytona with Glacier Blue Dial has become very collectible. The 126506 was originally released in 2013 for the 50th anniversary of the Daytona as the Ref. 116506, and eventually updated in 2023. The 40mm platinum case with platinum bracelet offers more precious metal than the 5980/60G, and is currently available for significantly less money, making the platinum Daytona look like a relative bargain. 

Albeit with its own unique charm, and possibly one of the few independent brands that give Patek Philippe a run for their money, is F.P. Journe. The F.P. Journe Centigraphe Sport Platinum is a haute horology chronograph in a modern sport watch package. With its integrated bracelet design in full platinum, and the dazzling chronograph that is able to measure 1/100th of a second, this is a watch that would easily cause envy amongst many collectors, even those with a developed Patek collection. 

While pictured here on the bracelet, the Omega Railmaster Master Co-Axial Blue Dial was also available with a blue denim nato strap. Given that this is a time only watch, it allows for the denim look without the added cost of the chronograph complication. As far as denim themed watches are concerned, this Omega maybe one of the more versatile options available. 

Final Thoughts

The Patek Philippe Nautilus has achieved widespread popularity, extending it into icon status. The rising value of time-only steel Nautilus watches has proven that there is public appetite to spend higher dollar amounts on watches. As an effort to propel forward what Patek Philippe is best known for amongst collectors to the public, and to meet more casual buyers where they are at, the denim themed Ref. 5980/60G brings high-end complications and precious metals into a more casual space. Definitely more fashion oriented in terms of styling, Patek Philippe was wise to keep the denim texture to the strap, as the blue-grey dial will age well over time, but the strap can be changed as fashion preferences change. Current resale values of these more casual yet high-dollar models indicates that this direction is successful for Patek Philippe. Only time will tell if it will bring a wider audience to their more traditional models.

See more of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/60G-001

Visit europeanwatch.com

There’s something magnificent about of gold chronograph — these wrist-worn stopwatches are amongst the most functional of timepieces, made to capture the cutting edge of motorsports, or help propel man into space. Chronographs are watches of purpose first and foremost. So to craft them in heavy, luxurious gold, reframing them from objects of purpose into ones of status is one of the ultimate power moves. Here are 10 of the best.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116508 “John Mayer”

Price: $70,000-$75,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 20, Water Resistance: 100, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Yellow Gold

Of the many watches that juxtapose the codes of luxury and utility, few do it, as well as the Rolex Daytona’ John Mayer’ Ref. 116508. Daytona’s already occupy a privileged place in the hierarchy of desirable chronographs in any configuration. Few are more coveted than this yellow gold, green-dialled version from 2016, which became a cult object thanks to a 2019 interview with uber-collector John Mayer on Hodinkee where he referred to the watch as a ‘sleeper hit’. Safe to say that people have woken up to the ample charms of this handsome green and gold beauty, which offers the best of both worlds — a superlative modern Rolex chronograph clad in an old-world feeling yellow gold case, with a precious metal bezel and a colorful dial that has plenty of panache and personality without feeling too over the top. Oh, and the ‘John Mayer’ hype factor doesn’t hurt either.

Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Moonshine Gold Ref. 310.60.42.50.99.001

Price: $40,000-$45,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.3mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Yellow Gold

The importance of the Omega Speedmaster in the history of watches is vast. It is so much so that within the long archive of this storied model are plenty of iconic models and references that go a long way to making collecting and appreciating Speedmasters so rewarding. One of the most significant historical Speedmasters were the very first gold Speedmasters, made in a special production run of 1014 watches in1969, with personalised pieces gifted to the Apollo Astronauts (as well as President Nixon and Vice President Agnew). Luckily, for those of us who haven’t travelled to space, Omega recreated this watch in 2019 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Moon Landing. Using Omega’s Moonshine gold, which offers a softer hue of yellow gold, this watch is a careful tribute to the original; the ceramic bezel is just the right shade of burgundy, making this watch one of the most special versions of the Speedmaster in the modern era.

Patek Philippe Chronograph Salmon Ref. 5172G

Price: $65,000-$70,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.3mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 25M, Crystal: Sapphire Crystal, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: White Gold 

Just because a chronograph is gold doesn’t mean it has to be flashy or ostentatious on the wrist. For proof of this concept, you need to look no further than the Patek Philippe Chronograph Salmon Ref. 5172G. Released with a rich (and on-trend) salmon dial back in 2022, this manually-wound chronograph is less high octane and more high society, thanks to the refined syringe hands and deceptively simple applied Arabic numerals, as well as the gorgeous lines of the 41mm white gold case. The case design is absolutely refined, with a double bezel and triple-stepped lugs to create an Art Deco ambience. The dial is quite restrained, too, with twin registers, no date and plenty of pleasing symmetry. It’s watches like these that prove Patek Philippe is the master of the game.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1R

Price: $180,000-$200,000, Case Size: 43.5mm, Thickness: 12.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.3mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold

Of course, Patek Philippe’s mastery extends beyond classical chronographs and into more muscular interpretations of the trope. The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1R is the walking embodiment of this. The rose gold Nautilus case on a rose gold bracelet doesn’t have the most subtle of looks, but it sure is impressive. It’s also one of the more visually balanced chronograph designs out there too, with the caliber CH 28-520 C offering a flyback chronograph with registers that are stacked, allowing for a cleaner look, and leaving plenty of room for the iconic horizontal stripes of the Nautilus dial — here in smokey black.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Frosted White Gold Ref. 26239BC.GG.1224BC.02

Price: $210,000- $220,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold

Humanity has been using gold as adornment for thousands of years. Given the enduring popularity of gold it can be hard to bring something new to the table when it comes to finish or treatment — but that hasn’t stopped Audemars Piguet. Frosted Gold is a technique from Florentine jewelry that jeweler Carolina Bucci introduced to watch cases. From a distance, it resembles a sprinkling of diamond dust, but in reality, the effect is achieved through repeated micro-hammering of the precious metal case. Initially, it appeared in limited editions, but it was so popular that it’s now part of the Le Brassus brand’s regular rotation. As you can see on this white gold chronograph, the frosted finish adds plenty of drama to the original precious metal.

Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph Ref. 26393CR.OO.A002KB.01

Price: $27,000-$30,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White and Rose Gold

When Audemars Piguet released the Code 11:59 collection five years ago, it’s fair to say that the determinedly non-Royal Oak-looking watch didn’t receive the warmest of welcomes. Of course, now that we’re all more familiar with this sophisticated and complex collection, we’ve come to realise just how special it is. The complex case straddles the sporty elegant divide perfectly and is the perfect platform for complications, like this chronograph. In fact, it was in the Code 11:59 case that Audemars Piguet chose to debut the new Caliber 4401, a top-of-the-line modern commercial chronograph movement. Of course, the sexy vertical brushed dial and ceramic case middle also add a lot to the charm of this very contemporary chronograph.

F.P. Journe Centigraphe LineSport Rose Gold

Price: $100,000-$120,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: 55.1mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Rose Gold

The watches of François-Paul Journe cannot be mistaken for anything else. They possess an undeniable style that manages to be both classic and unlike anything else on the market. And while the marque is best known for its dressier creations, the same rationale applies to their sportier releases, like this rose gold Centigraphe Line sport. Taking the incredible movement from the Centigraphe — a triple register chronograph that records accuracy up to one-hundredth of a second and features an unusual but ergonomic rocker-style pusher — and wraps it up in a 44mm rose gold case. Of course, this watch is far from chunky, with a comparatively slender 11mm case height, and a proportionally slim sporty bracelet.

Richard Mille RM72-01RG Automatic Flyback Chronograph

Price: $250,000-$280,000, Case Size: 38mm x 47.3mm, Thickness: 17mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.3mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold

Richard Mille is a known master of technical and complex materials. Carbon fibres, Quartz TPT, intense ceramics — these materials are Richard Mille’s stock in trade. But even if the brand does focus firmly on the future, it still respects the power of gold. Which is why the Richard Mille RM72-01RG Automatic Flyback Chronograph still packs an impressive punch in gold. Of course, the mechanics are more of a focus here than the famous tonneau case, the intensely complicated CRMC-1, a 4Hz chronograph capable of 24 hours of timing, in addition to a big date display and an indicator that tells you if your chronograph is running. All are perfectly framed by one of the most distinctively shaped gold cases out there.

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Dufour Rose Gold Ref. 403.031

Price: $140,000-$160,000, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 3 ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Rose Gold

When Philippe Dufour — widely acknowledged as the greatest living watchmaker — says that a watch is the best serially-produced wristwatch, you know its good. The watch in question is, ofg course, the A. Lange & Sohne Datograph ‘Dufour’ Rose Gold Ref. 403.031, a watch Dufour bought with his own money. A large part of the appeal of this watch is the incredible L951.01 calibre, one of the most impressive modern chronographs, and one which began development only one year after the Lange brand itself was revived in 1990. One detail that is particularly notable is the alternating Roman and baton markers. So much has already been said about this watch but, at the end of the day, if it’s good enough for Philippe Dufour, what more do you need to know?

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph Ref. W1525851

Price: $45,000-$50,000, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: White Gold

The Cartier Tortue is having a good year in 2024, thanks to its reissue as part of the Privé collection at Watches & Wonders, so now is a great time to explore the earlier Cartier Privé Collection Paris (CPCP) Tortue models. As you’d expect from a Cartier chronograph, this is an elegant affair in white gold with a refined white dial with blue markings. Another particularly cool detail about this era of Tortue Monopoussoir is the movement, which was developed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a firm founded by horological luminaries Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet, and Francois-Paul Journe. Talk about pedigree.

Make sure to check out our other buying guides, including our 34 favorite chronograph watches and our 30 favorite gold watches.

Greubel Forsey continues to hold a special place in the indie haute horlogerie scene. Where so many indie brands dive deep into a specific stylistic niche, Greubel Forsey’s catalog vacillates between traditional design codes and forward-thinking casual sports watches, all finished to the nth degree. Arguably, watches from Greubel Forsey are the true pinnacle of independent watchmaking, and with global recognition (and several GPHG awards under their belt), they remain highly covetable for those in the know. Leaning into their more casual aesthetics today, we have the Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S2 in Titanium — a “simpler” execution of the brand’s more sporting endeavors.

History

We’ve given you the founding history of Greubel Forsey (going back to 1999, and the first watch landing in 2004) several times now, but the historical anchor we’re leaning on today is a product of 2019 or 2020 — depending on whether we’re talking about the first prototype or first pieces actually “in market”. This date is significant, as it marked Greubel Forsey’s first venture into more sport-focused timepieces. Sure, their Grande Sonnerie was built to be extremely wearable and functional, however the GMT Sport arrived with an especially unorthodox case form and integrated bracelet; this was an obvious first for the brand, and a complete and total departure from the cases that came before it. 

This marked the beginnings of the Convexe case, and what could safely be dubbed a new era of Greubel Forsey that led us to the Balancier Convexe S2.

Design Details

As we’ve already touched on, the casework and complex cut of its sapphire crystal hand over a substantial introduction, event before one can truly appreciate its inner workings. It’s genuinely difficult to truly appreciate the complex curvatures of this case and crystal without handling it in person. It photographs beautifully from some angles, and horridly from others — let’s be honest here — but the work involved to make these multi-plane curvatures work together seamlessly is a work of art in and of itself. The same can be said for what rests below its crystal as well. Its hand set curves downward at the tips. Its balance wheel rests at a 30-degree incline, and its chapter ring appears to float above it all. The fact that every last detail is finished so superbly is little more than icing on a perfect slice of horological cake.

Inner Workings

Complex movement design and extremely refined hand-finishing play a big part in the sales pitch for Greubel Forsey, however that’s still not the entirety of the appeal here — at least not for me. Given how far modern watchmaking has evolved, and for how adventurous the upper echelon of independent watchmaking has become, there are few brands out there who tug at my inner architecture nerd heartstrings quite like Greubel can. The dimensionality of the exposed inner workings, bridges, and geartrains. The subtle interplay between structured form of the movement and the organic fluidity of its casework. The caliber of the Balancier S2 is a quintessential example of art-meets-engineering. Yes, it’s remarkably precise, shock resistant, and generally just an impressive movement from a watchmaking standpoint, but to not speak of it in broader terms does a disservice to us all.

Versus The Competition

If we were talking about a more traditionalist reference from the brand it would be a different story, but when looking at the Balancier Convexe S2, the competitive pool is slim at best. On one end of the spectrum, I’d put it up against things like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Carbon and the Richard Mille RM 002-V2 (both of which we compared to one another, not so long ago).Both are technologically advanced sports watches that push the boundaries of their respective makers, However I do believe the finishing of the Balancier leaves these two wanting.

The more I dig, the harder it is to find a suitable comparator. Richard Mille is the only real player in the space at this level, shy of perhaps looking at the recent Evo variants of the MB&F LM Perpetual; both of which are designed with a more sporting life in mind. At the end of the day, Greubel Forsey stands apart.

Personality

Unlike finding its suitable competitors, finding the personality that jives with the Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S2 is a very easy task. You appreciate groundbreaking watchmaking. You know and appreciate the challenges of hand-finished perfection. You understand and appreciate both the brand’s vision, and the objective scarcity of watches of this level that are actually designed and manufactured to be worn on a daily basis. People throw around the word “grail” far too often, but in this case, it’s objectively justified.

Final Thoughts

I’m the first to admit that I appreciate a watch that makes a statement. That statement can be about subtlety and elegance, or it can be a statement of “fuck your big-box conglomerate luxo-brand status watch”. The Balancier Convexe S2 is in several ways the latter. It is a watch that needs to be worn, seen, and appreciated. With less than a few hundred going into the market each year, seeing one of these watches on anyone’s wrist is a treat for the watch community at large. With that in mind, I’ll end on perhaps a polarizing statement. If you buy a Greubel Forsey to subject it to the dark sadness of the back corner of a safe, your license to collect is due to be revoked without sympathy.

See more of the Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S2 Titanium

Visit europeanwatch.com

Of the holy trinity brands, Audemars Piguet has always been the most adventurous, pushing the boundaries of design and fashion while maintaining the high horology excellence that the brand’s reputation is built on. Few watches better capture the AP philosophy today than the Royal Oak Perpetual reference 25686RP with a pink mother of pearl dial and two tone platinum and rose gold case and bracelet. Released towards the end of the 20th century, this watch foreshadowed so much of what we have come to know and love from Audemars Piguet in the 21st century. 

History

While it’s easy to write off AP as the “Royal Oak brand”, AP didn’t achieve its holy trinity status for being a one hit wonder. Founded in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry in the Vallee de Joux in 1875, Audemars Piguet quickly distinguished itself by creating its own complicated movements from the ground up. Soon the brand progressed to building complete pocket watches to fuel a rapidly growing customer base. 

The future for Audemars Piguet changed dramatically in 1972, when the brand released the Royal Oak. Unlike anything the industry had seen before, the Royal Oak challenged a number of norms. First, the luxury piece was executed in the most “lowly” of materials— stainless steel. Furthermore, this stainless steel, industrial-inspired design was more expensive than many precious metal dress pieces from AP and other competitors. The Royal Oak marked a paradigm shift not only for AP, but for the industry, changing the definition of what luxury looked like with wrist watches. 

While today Audemars Piguet is certainly heavily invested in the Royal Oak, the brand has used the collection as a way of making complications available to a completely different customer than the more buttoned up clientele attracted by Patek and Vacheron. In many respects, the highly complicated, playful watches of the 21st century of AP are perfectly introduced by the late 90s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with a pink mother of pearl dial. It’s hard to find a piece that is more Audemars Piguet. 

Design Details

While this Royal Oak Perpetual is built upon the Royal Oak foundation, it is complete with a whole host of details that distinguish it from a run of the mill Royal Oak. This piece is really all about materials. The case is constructed in an unconventional two tone combination— rose gold and platinum. Both the center link connectors of the bracelet and the bezel are fashioned from platinum, while the body of the case and primary bracelet links are rose gold. Details continue to the dial, which is made from pink mother of pearl. Additionally, the indexes are set with small diamonds instead of conventional hour markers. 

What makes this design so intriguing is the pairing of an industrial, sporty design with colors and finishes you’d find on a more delicate piece. Pink mother of pearl and diamonds combined with a Royal Oak is sort of a brilliant oxymoron. I think that really complements the overall character of the Royal Oak as a luxurious sports watch. This particular configuration was limited to only 25 examples. 

In addition to the finishing and material considerations, this piece is comfortably sized at 39mm. This sizing works for the largest number of wrists, and for a complicated sports watch, it’s really nice to have a sub 40mm option available. Furthermore, the piece is only 9mm thick, a proportion more akin to a dress piece than a sports watch. These dimensions make for a really enjoyable wearing experience. 

In the 21st century, AP has really pushed the envelope in terms of what a high horology watch brand can do. They tested the market’s limits for design, fashion, flash, and refinement, constantly balancing these priorities with tradition and historical precedent. Although AP’s most “rebellious” designs have come in the last 20 years, I think the look of this perpetual calendar makes it perhaps a metaphorical progenitor to 21st century AP. While this may not be for everyone, for the AP enthusiast who appreciates Audemars Piguet’s approach to design in the modern era, this watch will be a slam dunk. 

Inner Workings

Much like the story of the dial, the movement of this watch has a dual personality. On the one hand, you have a really traditional automatic-winding movement architecture with the caliber 2120. On the other hand, the movement itself is fashioned from gold, and features a skeletonized central winding rotor. 

The 2120 itself is a notable movement. Co-developed with Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin, the Audemars Piguet 2120 was for many many years the world’s slimmest automatic winding movement. To gain more purchase on the winding in the absence of a thicker rotor, AP placed the rotor on ruby bearings. The 2120 is one of the most widely utilized high horology movements, and speaks to AP’s history in a subtle way. 

From a technical standpoint, the 2120 affords 40 hours of reserve, and powers the full perpetual calendar, including leap year, month, day, date and moonphase. 

Personality 

The collector that gravitates toward this Royal Oak is a very particular type of enthusiast. They likely want to always wear a watch that makes a statement, tells a story, or stands out from the crowd. The bold look of this AP will certainly achieve this effect, and pushes beyond the look of a typical Royal Oak or Royal Oak perpetual calendar. The presence of the perpetual complication suggests that this collector does appreciate high horology, AP’s history, or the mechanical complexity of a complication of this kind. 

One of the most noteworthy aspects of this watch was its choice of materials, and I’d hope that the collector that ends up with this piece appreciates this facet of the watch. Likely, this collector is not a newcomer, and understands just how special the platinum and rose gold combination, coupled with the pink mother of pearl dial, truly is. 

Versus the Competition

When looking for alternatives to the AP Royal Oak Perpetual 25686RP, I think the best place to look first is to AP’s own more recent archive. Specifically, the Concept Tourbillon. I think the Concept Tourbillon in many ways reflects the continuation of the design philosophy foreshadowed with the Royal Oak Perpetual into the modern era. Like the reference 25686RP, the Concept Tourbillon makes use of interesting materials— titanium and black ceramic. Similarly, both watches feature sophisticated complications that pay tribute to AP’s history in high horology, yet both present those complications in a modern way. In the case of the perpetual, that was with the mother of pearl dial. For the Concept, this means an open-worked dial. 

Next up is a piece that builds on the AP Royal Oak Perpetual’s multicolor quality. In place of the mother of pearl, the AP Royal Oak ‘Rainbow’ features 32 baguette cut sapphires in the gradient of the rainbow. The dial is no less striking with its paves and baguette stick indexes. Both watches will make a statement, although, surprisingly, the Royal Oak Perpetual is probably more subtle (although this is purely relative). 

Finally, I’d like to suggest a scaled-back version of a similar design philosophy, but from one of AP’s competitors. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar reference 4300V comes with a skeleton dial variant that is incredibly special. The Overseas format is extremely slim on the wrist, and is a bit less known than the Royal Oak. I think if you like a modern integrated bracelet design that’s more under the radar, this is the way to go. 

Final thoughts

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar reference 25686RP is an excellent representation of what Audemars Piguet is all about. While the look of this piece isn’t for everyone, it never was intended to be. The union of a classic high horology complication with an extremely modern execution makes this the ultimate watch for the lover of complications that doesn’t want something so serious. 

See more of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar reference 25686RP

Visit europeanwatch.com

In the last ten years, the watch space has seen a number of trends. From Tiffany signatures to salmon or green dials, luxury watch brands have driven the latest tastes of the industry. One of the most famous trends of the last few years has been rainbow watches. Popularized by Rolex’s Rainbow Daytona, Rolex isn’t the only brand to utilize a rainbow theme. Today, we are taking a look at EWC’s favorite rainbow watches. 

Rolex Rainbow Daytona Ref. 116595RBOW

Price: $400,000-$425,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold

Arguably the watch that started it all for the rainbow trend, the Rolex 116595 “Rainbow” Daytona, executed in rose gold, started as a watch Rolex really struggled to sell. Offered to only the highest end customers of the brand, the exclusive Daytona featured a rainbow baguette bezel and hour markers, meteorite subsidiary dials, and diamond-set lugs (in a rose gold case). Many collectors laughed at this watch until demand for these pieces surged. This exceptional timepiece is as striking in appearance as its gem settings are precise.  All told, it’s one of the most desirable Rolexes on the market.

Rolex Day-Date President Rainbow Ref. 128238-0051

Price: $65,000-$75,000, Case Size: 36mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.4mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Yellow Gold

I’ve always held a special place in my heart for exclusive Rolex Day-Dates. The reference 128238-0051 extends the rainbow theme to the Day-Date, but in the traditional 36mm sizing. This reference features rainbow hour markers, and a full pave dial, alongside a traditional Day-Date case and bracelet. To me, the interplay between a flashy dial and a far more reserved case sizing works extremely well. For a slightly more under the radar Rolex Rainbow (only slightly), this is the way to go. 

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref. 116695SATS

Price: $100,000-$125,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: N/A, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Rose Gold

This last Rolex I would argue is the most striking. Unlike the previous pieces which assemble sapphires in a gradient around the dial to form the rainbow, in the case of the Yacht Master 116695SATS, this piece has the precious gems set in an alternating pattern that causes far more pop on the bezel. The gemstones themselves are unconventional in assortment as well: 38 sapphires, 8 tsavorites, and 1 diamond. The rose gold watch has a black dial with applique rose gold lume plots that add further contrast to the piece.  Altogether, this assemblage generates one of the most scintillating Rolexes ever made.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R

Price: $300,000-$350,000, Case Size: 39.9mm, Thickness: 10.37mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Rose Gold

This next piece comes from Patek Philippe’s contemporary collection. The Aquanaut “Luce” Rainbow Chronograph, reference 7968/300R-001 is one of Patek’s most desirable Aquanaut variations. Fashioned from rose gold with a rainbow bezel and markers, this piece features a double layer of baguettes on the bezel– the outer in rainbow tones, and the inner in white. The watch itself is quite capable, featuring a flyback chronograph function. Together there’s a really interesting contrast between the sporty complication and collection, and the chic jewelry vibe perpetuated by a sapphire bezel. This is certainly one of Patek’s modern masterpieces. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Rainbow” Ref. 15413BC

Price: $280,000-$290,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 9.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51.7mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold

Audemars Piguet’s take on the rainbow theme, the reference 15413BC is not a quiet watch. Fashioned entirely from white gold, the watch features multi-layered diamonds, from a pave dial, to baguette applied hour markers, to square cut sapphires on the bezel. This is an extremely rare watch to find as a factory piece from AP. This particular exclusive edition was released in 2019/ 2020 and was only extended to the most exclusive clients of Audemars Piguet. 

H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow 

Price: $150,000-$175,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12.1mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.9mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 12ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Rose Gold

Lover of complications, but still looking for a playful Rainbow spin? The Moser Streamliner Tourbillon is likely your best option. With over 60 sapphires cut in varying sizes to fit the Streamliner bezel, this piece is a work of fine jewelry setting in addition to its high horology prowess. Automatic winding with a tourbillon set on a vantablack dial, this piece is stunning. The Streamliner base family is chock full of interesting details on its own, with a unique bracelet and case architecture. Together, this piece will keep your eyes on your wrist throughout the day.  

Breitling SuperOcean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition “Rainbow” 

Price: $10,000-$12,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.9mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel

Our first diver on the list, the Breitling SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 “Rainbow” was limited to 250 pieces in stainless steel. This unique diver was intended to take the look and feel of a vintage Breitling tool watch and modernize it. And modernized it is. A contemporary sizing, modern materials, and rainbow markers make this piece stand on the opposite end of the spectrum from a classic Breitling piece. And that’s a part of this watch’s appeal. 100 meters water resistant, the fish will be jealous of this watch.

Zenith Defy Classic Rainbow Titanium Ref. 32.9003.670/86.R588

Price: $20,000-$22,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 14.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.6mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 3ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium

This next piece is somewhat of a paradox. On the one hand, it’s fashioned from titanium, an incredibly utilitarian material to choose, one typically paired with a hard core tool watch (indeed, this piece has an in-house El Primero movement). Similarly, the dial on this one is openworked and skeletonized, reinforcing the hard core aesthetics. And simultaneously, this piece has rainbow baguette cut sapphires. I think this piece provides a really great value point to access the aesthetic of a rainbow without spending six figures plus to achieve the look. If you appreciate the dichotomy between two worlds that this watch captures, this piece would look great in your watch collection.

Greubel Forsey has long been admired for its incredibly unique timepieces and complication layouts. The brand has produced some of the most striking and innovative watches in the 21st century. Making only a few hundred watches a year, Greubel Forsey is the epitome of niche watchmaking, and the GMT Balancier Convexe is an excellent representation of the brand’s design and mechanical approach to watchmaking. 

History 

Started in 1999, Greubel Forsey was founded with one stated goal: to pioneer an “extreme, uncompromising approach to fine watchmaking that would reimagine… each of the technical and aesthetic fundamentals established over the last 200 years”. This has certainly been the case. In 2004, the brand presented its first watch, a double tourbillon with the cage mounted at 30 degrees. This watch not only set the stage for Greubel’s coming contributions to watchmaking, but also was mechanically brilliant. This tourbillon was essentially the first to provide an actual mechanical advantage for a wristwatch. 

Since 2004, Greubel Forsey has made a series of extremely limited run watches with unique movements and striking case shapes. In 2022, the brand announced the release of the GMT Balancier Convexe, limited to 66 pieces, 22 delivered each year between 2022 and 2024. This watch would combine the aesthetic design language of GF with a set of unique complications that were rather uncommon from the brand. Let’s check it out. 

Design Details

The design of the Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe was intended to exhibit two of Greubel Forsey’s most defining characteristics. First, at 7 o’clock, the brand mounted the escapement at 30 degrees, with a massive black polished bridge, all finished by hand. The 30 degree escapement is a nod to not only the brand’s heritage with the 30 degree tourbillon, its first model, but also its later creations, which also featured a tilted escapement for optimized chronometric precision. This is the fourth watch Greubel has made with this balance configuration.

The other classic attribute is the titanium globe set on the top right of the dial. A feature that has been used a number of times in the past, using the precision laser engraved globe and the 24 hour ring surrounding it, you can locate the city on the globe and note the hour that corresponds to it. In this way, you can effectively identify the time anywhere on the globe. It’s one of the most unique world time layouts and it’s a signature for Greubel Forsey as a brand. 

The goal with the GMT Balancier Convexe was to take these two design details and incorporate them into a single watch— but one that was supremely wearable and comfortable. Therefore, the Balancier Convexe GMT measures 46.5mm, but has no lugs, meaning that the watch wears according to its case diameter (there’s not a larger lug to lug dimension). The thickness of the watch is 13.75mm. While these dimensions would typically indicate a massive wearing experience, the lugless strap integration lets the piece wear far more comfortably than the size would suggest, and more compactly than most Greubel Forsey watches. 

Beyond the wearing experience, the dial of the GMT Balancier Convexe is completed with a subsidiary seconds between 4 and 5 o’clock and a GMT at 9. The GMT complication is controlled and adjusted by a pusher on the case flank at 10. This is a complicated piece, and it has quite a bit going on on the dial, between the time and world timer, the GMT, the seconds, and the balance. However, the monochrome textured backdrop of the dial allows the complications to take center stage and also permits the watch to present in a less cluttered way. 

Everywhere you look, you are met with astounding finishing. Out of Greubel Forsey’s roughly 150 craftsmen workforce, about a third are solely dedicated to hand finishing, and this truly shows through to the final result. 

Flipping the watch over, you see a more traditional universal time display on the caseback. This 24 hour wheel has one intriguing detail— the replacement of Paris on the city wheel with La Chaux-de-Fonds, where Greubel Forsey watches are made. 

The last defining detail on this brilliant watch is the “convexe” of the case and crystal. The whole case seems as though it’s been warped and bent towards its center, and the crystal conforms to match the distorted layout. This adds a degree of three-dimensionality to the design, and also complements the non-conformist style of the rest of the movement and dial layout. Very nice!

Inner Workings

The Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe’s exceptional movement is largely shrouded by the double-sided complication, but simply looking at the slate of the complications, you can guess how sophisticated it is! The movement itself is made from over 400 components, and the escapement is comprised of nearly 60 parts on its own. In spite of the array of high drain complications, the watch still packs an impressive 72 hour power reserve at full wind. It is powered by two coaxial mainspring barrels. To keep weight down, lots of the movement componentry is made from titanium. It’s an impressive movement fueling an impressive watch. 

Versus the Competition

Greubel Forsey is a difficult brand to substitute. Greubel has such a unique design and movement architecture, that if this is what you’re looking for, you’ll be hard pressed to find it elsewhere. Therefore, the best alternatives are brands that have a similar philosophy towards watchmaking— brands that believe in modernized complications for a new audience. 

The first brand I’d consider would be MB&F. Watches such as the Legacy Machine Perpetual perpetuate a similar tradition to that of the Greubel Forsey— featuring a traditional complication in an atypical layout. This would be a great place to turn instead of the Greubel. 

Alternatively, you may consider Vianney Halter’s Perpetual Calendar. Vianney Halter is a brand I have a tremendous amount of respect for. The maison has pioneered a completely new look, heavily influenced by the steampunk aesthetic, and I think it works absolutely brilliantly. Once again, the brand had to work the watch around the design rather than the other way around. 

Finally, I’d look within Greubel Forsey’s own catalog, at the double tourbillon we’ve covered previously here. This watch, as Greubel Forsey’s first official model, provides a great place from which to examine the Greubel Forsey aesthetic and philosophy. 

Personality

The collector that opts for Greubel Forsey is a serious personality indeed. This is not a watch for the faint of heart. First, you must appreciate the mechanical complexity of this piece; you must appreciate the sheer rarity of a Greubel Forsey creation; you must have the physical stature to support a watch of this size, and finally, you must have the means to acquire. That makes this piece a niche selection. That said, with Greubel Forsey’s small production and high standards, this piece was never intended as a mass market offering at all. In fact, this gets to the very root of what independent watchmaking is all about, and why it’s become so popular recently. Collectors are thirsting for something new, different, exciting. And Greubel Forsey is all of those things. 

Final Thoughts

Is this watch a Royal Oak? A Nautilus? A Submariner? Absolutely not. It’s not that this watch is better than any of those pieces. But if you appreciate watchmaking and want something that stands out for being unique, this has to be a great choice. To me, the GMT Balancier Convexe encapsulates everything that is Greubel Forsey in a single watch. It is the wearable extension of the brand’s design DNA, and it deserves a spot on your wrist. Check it out for yourself at European Watch Company. 

See more of the Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe

Visit europeanwatch.com

Recently, Patek Philippe has been leaning into creating new pieces geared towards women with their Aquanaut “Luce” line. And while, according to Patek at least, these pieces are designed for the brand’s clientele, they are actually quite appealing to men as well. One prime example of this is the Aquanaut Chronograph Reg. 7968/300R. While the watch has a mother of pearl dial and is set with diamonds and rainbow gems across around the bezel, it is 39.9mm wide, making it the perfect size for men as well. And, thus, it has found popularity among male and female collectors alike. 

History

Patek Philippe has a lengthy history with making women’s wristwatches, dating back to the 19th century. One of the earliest modern ladies watches was a Patek Philippe, made in 1868 and sold to Hungarian Countess Koscewicz. So while Patek may be more well known for their mens’ sport watches and complications (though we contend that every watch is unisex), their history of making women’s watches is lengthy.

While in the past, women’s watches have been small, quartz and without any real complications, Patek has been trying to change that in recent years. And the Luce Collection has been the brand’s means to do so. Using the Aquanaut, a sports watch, as the platform, Patek has played with materials, gems and colors to create something unique for women. 

And I see the Luce Rainbow Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R as a culmination of Patek’s attempts to create more serious wristwatches for women. Not only does the watch feature an intricate mother of pearl dial and rainbow gem-set bezel, but it has a chronograph, something Patek would normally not include on a ladies watch. And while the watch is perfect for women, at 39.9mm it is also a great watch for men. 

Design Details

While this Aquanaut is marketed as a ladies watch, I see it as a watch perfect for men or women. This has a lot to do with the size of the watch. While the 7968/300R has been sized down to 39.9mm from the brand’s other Aquanaut Chronographs (which are 42.mm), it is similarly sized to the time only Ref. 5167 (which is 40.8mm). Thus, at nearly 40mm, the Aquanaut Luce Rainbow is clearly wearable by anyone, man or woman, who likes the watch’s design.

Visually, the watch is much more interesting than your run of the mill Aquanaut. You will probably first notice the bright red rubber strap, with the Aquanaut’s iconic grenade pattern. The grenade pattern continues onto the dial, but that’s not what makes the dial so spectacular. While you might miss it upon first glance, the dial is actually made of white mother of pearl. The mother of pearl has been crafted into the the grenade pattern (which is present on most Aquanaut models). You have to see it in person, but the mother of pearl dial adds an additional sparkle and level of interest to the watch.

Beyond the dial and strap, the gem-set bezel stands out. Some may compare this watch to the rainbow Daytona, but it actually is fairly unique. Unlike the rainbow Daytona, the Aquanaut has two tiers of gems. The inner tier consists of 50 baguette-cut diamonds. The outer tier is a rainbow pattern, consisting of 52 baguette-cut multicolored sapphires. The sapphires’ colors are more muted than a rainbow Daytona, consisting of yellows, oranges, pinks, purples and blues. The bezel sapphires are matched by sapphire hour markers (though there are also numeral indexes as well).

Inner Workings

The Aquanaut Luce 7968/300R runs on the Caliber CH 28-520 in-house chronograph automatic movement. This movement actually powers the larger Aquanaut chronographs as well. The chronograph has a flyback functionality, with central seconds and a 60 minutes counter. Because the watch has a single sundial, it is a much cleaner look for a chronograph.

Technically, the movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 VPH (4 Hz) and has a 50-55 hour power reserve.

Personality

If you’re a woman, looking for a wristwatch with serious aesthetic appeal and watchmaking, the 7968/300R is a great option for you. But at nearly 40mm, it is not a small watch. And perhaps because of this, the Aquanaut Luce Rainbow has been a hit among male collectors as well. 

I see this watch as something that has plenty to offer to both male and female collectors. For men, it might be on the flashier side. But there certainly have been a lot of men looking to add these types of watches to their collections (Kevin O’Leary, I’m looking at you). Yes, the red strap, and gem-set bezel is a little loud, but the market is definitely heading in the direction of producing more of these types of watches (look at the new Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater for example).

Versus the Competition

If you like the Aquanaut Chronograph, with its simple single sundial dial design, but don’t want all the pomp and circumstance of a gem-set bezel and mother of pearl dial, the Ref. 5968A is a great watch. While the Aquanaut Luce Rainbow is rose gold, this piece is stainless steel. It is a little larger at 42.2mm and has a subdued black dial and rubber strap (in either black or orange). But the orange accents and chronograph seconds hand add just a little character and make the watch stand out. 

If you love the rainbow bezel of the Aquanaut Luce, the iconic Rolex Daytona Rainbow Ref. 116595 is great option. Like the Aquanaut, it is rose gold with rainbow cut sapphires adorning the bezel and hour markers. Instead of a mother of pearl dial, the Daytona has meteorite subdials, that add a unique flare to the watch. In terms of rainbow watches, it doesn’t get any more iconic than the Rolex Daytona.

Final Thoughts

Is the Aquanaut Luce Rainbow a women’s watch, a men’s watch, or a unisex watch? It doesn’t really matter that much to me. To me its just a great execution of a rainbow bezel watch, done in a unique way. So, if you like it, wear it, regardless of your gender. But I will admit, I do appreciate legacy brands like Patek Philippe creating complicated, serious wristwatches, catered towards women.

See more of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph “Rainbow” Ref. 7968/300R

Visit europeanwatch.com

While unique dial finishings and exotic materials are not complications per se, they can completely change a watch’s aesthetic. Guilloche, enamel, and even meteorite can take a fairly standard watch and turn it into something special. In that vein, when used on a watch’s dial, mother of pearl adds a beautiful, shimmering effect that is unlike anything else. With so many different colors and textures visible in the natural material, watches with mother of pearl look different and take on a different appearance depending on the light and the angle from which you’re viewing it. In order to add some color to your watch collection, take a look at 9 of our favorite mother of pearl watches.

F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Black Mother of Pearl Limited Edition

Price: $290,000-$300,000, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 10.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.9mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Platinum.

Mother of pearl dials can sometimes come across as fussy or dated, but when F.P. Journe uses the material in their designs, that definitely not the case. Case in point: the limited edition Octa Calendrier with a Black Mother of Pearl dial. Beyond the insanely stunning dial, the watch also features an annual calendar, complete with a retrograde date display. That being said, the black mother of pearl dial really steals the show here! It isn’t actually black, but the mother of pearl is quite dark, with a mix of blues, grays, purples, greens and even some pink. Colorful and iridescent, this is an incredibly rare and unique piece that will definitely get some looks the next time you strap it to your wrist!

F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain Nacre

Price: $115,000-$125,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum.

Journe does such a great job with mother of pearl dials, we had to include a second. The Chronometre Souverain Nacre is something completely different from the Octa Calendrier featured above. The center of the dial, which features the time display, small seconds subdial and the power reserve display, is finished in a silver guilloche. However, the outer portion of the dial, with the blue painted hour markers and minute track, is fashioned from blue mother of pearl. If you don’t look carefully, you might not even notice the mother of pearl. If you are looking for a more under the radar offering that features a subtle touch of mother of pearl, the Chronometre Souverain Nacre in platinum is a great choice.

Gerald Genta Mickey Mouse Mother of Pearl Dial G3487.7

Price: $9,000-$9,500, Case Size: 36mm, Thickness: 8.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 36mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.

Gerald Genta watches are known for a few things: retrograde complications, Mickey Mouse (and other Disney characters), and yes Mother of Pearl dials. The Gerald Genta Ref. G3487.7 has two out of these three defining characteristics with Mickey and mother of pearl featuring prominently in the design. Beyond the gorgeous mother of pearl dial, Mickey’s arms serve as the hour and minute hands, adding a little bit of quirkiness to the design. If you are a Genta collector, this is a must have.

Gerald Genta Retro Classic Blue Mother of Pearl Dial Ref. G.3614

Price: $5,00-$5,500, Case Size: 28mm, Thickness: 12.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 350M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Quartz, Material: Stainless Steel.

If you love Genta’s watches, but cartoon characters on your timepiece isn’t your thing, the Ref. G.3614 Retro Classic Blue Mother of Pearl is a great option. The watch still has the classic Genta look, displaying the time using a jump hour aperture and retrograde minutes with the added allure of a blue mother of pearl dial. With texture that shimmers and shines depending on the light, if you are a Genta collector who is looking for something a little more obscure, the Ref. G.3614 is a good choice.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25686RP

Price: $330,000-$350,000, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold/Platinum.

The most complicated (and possibly the rarest) watch on our list is this very unique Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25686RP. Not only does this unique perpetual calendar sport a two-tone combination of rose gold and platinum (as opposed to the more standard steel), it also features a dial crafted from purple-hued mother of pearl with pink mother of pearl subdials. This watch might not be for everyone, but it’s certainly different and will definitely be a conversation starter.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R 

Price: $370,000-$380,000, Case Size: 39.9mm, Thickness: 10.37mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.24mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold.

First of all, let’s get this out of the way – while Patek Philippe classifies the Aquanaut Luce Ref. 7968/300R as a “ladies watch”, we think it can easily be worn by both men and women. Yes it has diamonds and sapphires in the color of the rainbow on the bezel and indices, but it’s 40mm in diameter and who said men can’t have a little fun too! Beyond all the gems on this watch, perhaps the most impressive part of this Aquanaut is the white mother-of-pearl dial that has been engraved with the standard “grenade” pattern seen on pretty much every Aquanaut ever made. It’s so well done, you might not even realize that the dial is mother of pearl upon first glance. Man or woman, the Aquanaut Luce Ref. 7968/300R is one of our absolute favorite watches that features a mother of pearl dial.

Rolex Daytona Tahitian Dial Ref. 116503

Price: $30,000-$32,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Yellow Gold/Stainless Steel.

While Rolex is generally considered to be one of the more traditional, conservative Swiss watchmakers in the industry, they actually have had their fair share of uncharacteristically loud designs over the years, including plenty with mother of pearl dials. Case in point, the stunning Daytona Ref. 116503 with Tahitian mother of pearl dial. Tahitian mother of pearl dials are generally darker and, we would argue, have more of a “wow” factor than traditional white MOP dials. If you are a Rolex collector, a Daytona collector, or both, this is a must have piece.

Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Ref. PFC267-1263800-HA2421

Price: $9,000-$11,000, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 7.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold.

Parmigiani Fleurier has made quite a name for itself recently, thanks in no small part to the sporty Tonda line. Within that collection, the Tonda 1950 skews a little bit more traditional, (think more Calatrava than say Aquanaut or Nautilus). The Ref. PFC267-1263800-HA2421 features a dark mother of pearl dial with a diamond bezel that lends even more visual interest to the piece. If you like Parmigiani Fleurier but want something with a little more “oomph” than their standard offerings, this is a solid option.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 “Soiree” Ref. 110.030

Price: $48,000-$52,000, Case Size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 10mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48.2mm, Lug Width: 2-mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: White Gold.

The A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 “Soiree” Ref. 110.030 is extremely special, even among the already rarified world of watches with mother of pearl dials. While some watches on this list had both mother of pearl and guilloche portions of the dial, on the Soiree, the mother of pearl is guilloched. It’s hard to put into words, but the dial just pops in a way that a guilloche or mother of pearl only dial doesn’t. Add Lange’s amazing movement finishing and iconic design and you have a stunner of a watch.

Rolex doesn’t have much of a reputation for innovation. While many brands push modern designs and flashy novelties, the crown is the master of incremental changes, tweaking its designs every few years in a slow, continuous act of refinement. That said, when Rolex does do something out of the ordinary, as was the case with the new Yacht-Master 42 reference 226627, it really makes a splash. At first glance just another run of the mill Rolex sport watch, this 42mm 2023 release added the second all-titanium model to the Rolex collection. Let’s take a closer look!

History

The Rolex Yacht-Master debuted in 1992 as something of a modernized Submariner. Believed to originally have been intended as merely an update to the Submariner, it quickly became clear that the Yacht-Master deserved to be its own model with its own distinct personality. A luxurious, precious metal variant of the classic Submariner tool watch, the Yacht-Master had a unique identity and quickly became a popular staple in the collection. The updated look featured an insert that was permanently affixed to the bezel (as opposed to the floating insert found on the Submariner), the handset was wider, the dial had maxi style indexes, and of course, precious metal was standard.

Since then, the Yacht-Master collection has expanded to include a number of additional references. In 1994, Rolex added a midsize 35mm variant as well as a lady’s 29mm piece. In 2015, Rolex added an Everose gold model paired with an Oysterflex rubber strap, and in 2019, Rolex debuted the modern Yacht-Master, resized to 42mm with an Oysterflex strap. However today, we are talking about the most recent news in the Yacht-Master department, the 42mm titanium Yacht-Master that made its debut in 2023. As its first mass-market titanium watch (yes the Deepsea Challenge came first, but that was a super limited niche piece), the watch was a real surprise coming from the normally conservative brand. 

Design Details

Beyond the case and bracelet material, this Yacht-Master was designed to remind you of the precious metal Yacht-Masters that Rolex has produced the last few years. This watch features the maxi dial, rounded edges, and overall luxurious feel that the model is known for, and yet, it is a very different animal. The matte look of the brushed titanium paired with a matte black ceramic bezel, black dial, and white lume plots fuse to create a stealth presence on the wrist. The more muted tones of the bezel compared with, say, a Submariner, really set this piece apart. 

While the aesthetics help set the stage for this watch, the feel on the wrist tells a slightly different story. Whereas a 42mm Rolex should be a substantial piece on the wrist, this titanium variant weighs a mere 100 grams – which is a blessing or a curse depending on who you ask. If you’re looking for the reassuring heft of a luxury sports watch, this may not be for you. If, on the other hand, you find a heavy watch imposing or uncomfortable, there is finally an option for you from a brand that hasn’t historically offered much in the way of lightweight pieces (sure, Rolex has the Deepsea Challenge, but few wrists are capable of wielding that thing). 

The bracelet on this watch is the classic Oyster style that we have come to know and love from Rolex, meaning that there’s nothing particularly aggressive or polarizing about the execution. If appreciate titanium, you are going to like this watch quite a bit.

Alongside the other recent releases from Rolex (a Daytona with an exhibition caseback, puzzle and emoji dial Day-Dates, bright colored OPs, etc), a titanium model actually seems fairly subdued. Maybe this is because, as an industry, we are adjusting to a more adventurous Rolex than we were historically used to. Interesting to imagine what else might be in the pipeline…

Inner Workings

The ref. 226627 Yacht-Master is powered by Rolex’s automatic-winding caliber 3235 movement. The 3235 was introduced in 2015 as Rolex’s updated automatic winding movement with a date and came with an elongated 70-hour power reserve alongside other improvements including a longer mainspring and thinner barrel walls. The movement is accurate within +/- 2 seconds per day and is generally regarded as one of the most robust and easiest to service in the industry. The movement is much higher tech than previous calibers from Rolex and came as a welcome upgrade that brought Rolex watches in line with the standard longer power reserve that is now the norm in the industry. 

Versus the Competition 

There are a number of alternatives to the Titanium Yacht-Master that you should consider if you’re in the market. While the Yacht-Master was originally intended to be a more luxurious model from Rolex, in titanium, it has a much sportier presence. Those seeking the more luxurious feel would likely gravitate towards one of the precious metal variants, like any of the the yellow, rose, or white gold 42mm Yacht-Master’s Rolex offers. Additionally, the brand has a number of special exotic dial variants, including a tiger’s eye Yacht Master that is worth a look. 

If you are searching for a more affordable titanium diver, the Tudor Pelagos 39 is quite difficult to beat. For a fraction of the price, you gain access to the lightweight tool watch club. The Pelagos is one of Tudor’s most popular watches today and brings all the capabilities of a hardcore diver without breaking the bank. 

Finally, I’d recommend the hardest core diver that Rolex has produced in a long time, the Deepsea Challenge. Also fashioned from titanium, this monstrous piece supplies a depth rating of not one meter less than 11,000. There’s something reassuring about knowing that you will die long before your watch will. The Deepsea Challenge was Rolex’s first series-produced titanium watch and, coupled with its impressive specs, it makes for a really unique piece that pays tribute to the brand’s origins as a maker of bulletproof tool watches.

Personality

I picture the Ref. 226627 as a weekend warrior. Titanium is a relatively soft material, but the natural oxidation of the surface over time makes small scratches essentially disappear. This unique quality offers a degree of comfort that you don’t necessarily have with other, “shinier” Rolex models. Additionally, this piece has a casual, non-ostentatious appearance to it. The bezel is matte finished rather than high gloss ceramic; the titanium has a robust, utilitarian gray hue to it that stainless steel lacks; the maxi markers look stronger and less delicate. These aesthetic choices add up to a look and feel that is reassuring on the wrist. There’s little concern for how the piece will hold up and it’s clearly a watch that you can put on and forget about. 

Final Thoughts

The ref. 226627 Rolex Yacht-Master is many things. On the one hand, it’s part of the brand’s luxurious diver model family. On the other hand, it’s a titanium diver that packs a 100 meter water resistance and a James Bond, Jason Bourne-esque persona. Rolex as a brand is truly the master of logical paradoxes (luxury tool watches anyone?). A purpose built tool that is constructed with refinement and luxury as core priorities shouldn’t work. And yet, as Rolex has shown time and time again, it does, and effortlessly so. The Rolex Yacht-Master in titanium is just the latest in the brand’s longstanding tradition for crafting luxurious tool watches that deserve a place in your watch roll. 

See more of the Rolex Yacht Master 226627

Visit Europeanwatch.com

What makes for the perfect summer watch? If you spend your time at the beach or lake, perhaps a dive watch is your choice. Swimming not really your thing? Maybe a bright or funky colored dial is more your speed. Something that will stand out for those weekends in the Hamptons or on the Cape. Whatever your summer style, we put together a list of 10 of our favorite watches for you to wear when the weather gets warm.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LN

Price: $10,000-$15,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 300M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.

When thinking of a summer watch, the first thing that comes to mind is probably some kind of diver. And no diver is more famous than the Rolex Submariner. Arguably the first modern dive watch ever made, the Submariner has a long and storied history dating back to its release 1954. If you are looking for a go anywhere, do anything watch, or for a “one watch collection”, the Rolex Submariner, modern or vintage, is the first suggestion we’d make. It’s as classic as it gets and with 300 meters of water resistance, it’s perfect for that summer beach vacation. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Turquoise Ref. 126000

Price: $12,000-$18,000, Case Size: 36mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.

A summer watch in spirit more than any specific functionality, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual with turquoise (or Tiffany blue) dial is just a fun everyday wear that doesn’t take itself too seriously. When we see light blue dials, we just think summer. If you are looking to get yourself into an entry level Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is the way to go. That being said, the turquoise dial sells for well above its retail price on the secondary market. Worth it in our opinion!

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167/300G

Price: $280,000-$300,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Water Resistance: 120M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold.

With a name like Aquanaut, you would assume that this Patek Philippe is a dive watch. Well, it isn’t. It is Patek Philippe’s most casual watch, though, and the perfect model to wear during the summer. The integrated rubber strap has a unique grenade-esque pattern that is also mimicked on the dial. The Ref. 5167/300G shown here is a very rare, special order variant encrusted with diamonds on the bezel, case and lugs. Did you score an invite to Michael Rubin’s famous white party? This is the watch for the job.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 15720CN Diver Limited Edition

Price: $38,000-$42,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 53mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 300M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold.

Most don’t think of a dive watch when they think of Audemars Piguet, but the Royal Oak Offshore Diver is one of the most attractive luxury dive watches on the market today. Limited to just 300 pieces, the Ref. 15720CN combines a white gold case with a black ceramic bezel and black dial. The coolest part? In order to maintain the iconic octagonal Royal Oak bezel but still give the watch added utility, the Offshore Diver has an internal rotating bezel controlled by a crown at 10 o’clock. If you are looking for a diver that is a step above the rest, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15720CN is a great choice.

H. Moser & Cie Venturer Concept Arctic Blue Fume Dial

Price: $21,000-$25,000, Case Size: 38.8mm, Thickness: 9.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: White Gold.

In addition to divers, when we think of summer watches, we think of bright, bold dials and perhaps no brand does them as well as H. Moser & Cie. The Venturer Concept Arctic Blue features a completely sterile dial, except for the wild blue fume finishing which truly speaks for itself. It’s bright, fun, and the perfect watch to bring on your travels. It’s sure to be a conversation starter no matter where the summer breeze takes you. 

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Summer Blue

Price: $5,000-$6,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 300M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.

It would be horological blasphemy to create a list of the best summer watches and not include an Omega Seamaster. There are more variants of the Seamaster than we can keep track of, but we decided to go with the most summery of them all, the ref. 210.32.42.20.03.002 Seamaster Diver 300M “Summer Blue”. I mean, the watch has summer in the name… Beyond that, it’s just a great looking watch. The summer blue dial and bezel lie somewhere between baby and royal blue and has a sort of iridescent quality. The indexes are also a light blue, giving the watch a monochromatic look that we really like. Capable and good looking, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Summer Blue has it all.

IWC Ingenieur 40 Aqua Dial

Price: $15,000-$17,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.7mm, Lug Width: 14mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.

When IWC released the refreshed Ingenieur line last year, you might have expected them to start with a model with a deep blue dial to compete with other iconic Genta-designed pieces, like the Royal Oak and Nautilus. But instead, they went with a summery “aqua blue” (green? turquoise?). We definitely think that was a wise choice as in a proverbial sea of stainless steel sport watches, it’s easy to get lost (even if your design actually came from the pen of Gerald Genta himself). Releasing a watch with a unique and interesting dial color is a smart move and it seems that collectors would agree. The IWC Ingenieur 40 with aqua dial is the hardest of the collection to come by, and is not readily available at the boutique.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale Ref. 25707B

Price: $3,500-$4,500, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.75mm, Lug-to-Lug: 52mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 200M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.

The Black Bay (in all its many forms) is the first thing that many people think of when they think of Tudor, but the Pelagos is actually Tudor’s most serious diver. The FXD Marine Nationale Ref. 25707B seen here is the most summery of the bunch. It has lugs with a fixed bar meaning it is most at home on a NATO strap and the titanium case makes it light, but also an incredibly durable tool watch (and it has super bright lume). If you want something that you can really beat up, the Pelagos FXD is a great choice.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 50th Anniversary Ref. 2200A-1130

Price: $10,000-$12,000, Case Size: 40.3mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 300M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.

Since we included the Rolex Submariner, it only makes sense to include a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, (arguably) the other first modern dive watch. With a long history involving Jacques Cousteau and a number of other interesting characters, the Ref. 2200A-11300 seen here is probably our favorite variant. This piece was limited to just 150 pieces in honor of the model’s 50th anniversary and while the most common criticism of the model regards its size at 42mm, the 50th Anniversary model is a much more wearable 40mm. Because of this, the Fifty Fathoms 50th Anniversary has been a hit in collector circles. 

DOXA SUB 300T Professional

Price: $1,800-$2,000, Case Size: 42.5mm, Thickness: 13.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 300M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.

If you are looking for something summer-themed in both color and functionality, and a little more entry-level in price, the DOXA Sub 300T Professional is a great choice. DOXA has a long history in the dive watch category and the Sub 300 was first released in 1967. It was even famously worn by oceanographer and filmmaker Jacques Cousteau. Besides the heritage of the Sub 300, it just has a unique design. The recessed tonneau case is unlike any other watch on the market and the orange dial is a nice pop of color for the summer. For around $2,000 on the secondary market, we’re not sure you can do any better when looking for a watch to pair with your summer exploits!

Conclusion

So there you have 10 of our favorite luxury watches to wear this summer. Some are dive watches, perfect for taking with you to the beach (whether you’re lounging or actually diving). Some are a little more ostentatious with fun, bright dials, perfect for that summer party. Whatever your aesthetic, make sure to check out our full catalog of watches at europeanwatch.com.

Audemars Piguet is often thought of as a one watch brand, but AP existed long before the Royal Oak came along and their back catalog is full of some incredibly interesting and unusual designs. The recent introduction of the Code 11.59 model line has proven that AP still knows how to create something different when they put their mind to it. And with the Ref. 15212NB.OO.A002KB.01 Code 11.59 Starwheel, AP has flexed its haute horology muscle and given collectors something that they have been clamoring for. 

History

While the Code 11.59 is a relatively new collection (first released in 2019), the Starwheel has a much deeper history. The intricate complication of wandering hour discs and retrograde minutes was actually created in the 17th century (for a Pope of all people!) and Audemars Piguet’s first interpretation hit the market in 1991.

The original Audemars Piguet Starwheel was a lot more traditional in its design (beyond the obscure complication, of course). The original model from 1991 sported a slender 36mm case in either yellow or rose gold and a guilloche outer dial with transparent sapphire wandering hour discs. For such an avant-garde watch packed with a haute horological complication, it was actually rather subdued and understated. 

The original Starwheel occupied a somewhat obscure position in Audemars Piguet’s catalog and was produced in small numbers up until 2000 with a number of different dial variations, metals, and even a few with gem-set bezels sold to collectors.

Design Details

In 2022, Audemars Piguet brought the Starwheel back as part of the recently launched Code 11.59 model line. Many have speculated that Audemars Piguet would use the Code 11.59 as a platform for innovation and experimentation and clearly the Starwheel represents a first attempt. First impressions are: WOW. AP really hit it out of the park with this piece.

While AP’s original Starwheel had a much more classic and restrained look, the Code 11.59 version takes a much more modern approach. Instead of clear sapphire wandering hour discs, the Code 11.59 Starwheel uses sleek black opaline aluminum discs. Instead of a guilloched outer dial, you get deep blue sparkling aventurine. This new interpretation is sized up quite a bit as well, at 41mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick vs. the original at 36mm and 9mm. The three piece, white gold case with its black ceramic midcase, brings the watch together in a way that, I think, improves greatly upon the original. The original clearly paid tribute to the 17th century night clock commissioned by Pope Alexander XII, but with the Code 11.59 version, AP has chosen to look to the future instead of the past.

Inner Workings

The Code 11.59 Starwheel runs on the Audemars Piguet’s in-house caliber 4310, which itself is based on the caliber 4309. To achieve the wandering hour complication, AP added a module to their time-only caliber 4309. While the watch features both wandering hours and retrograde minutes complications, the seconds hand is a standard seconds hand. This doesn’t take away from the design, though AP’s original Starwheel did not have a seconds hand.

Personality

As I’ve already mentioned, this variation of the Starwheel is much more modern and eye-catching and really is a statement piece on your wrist. In addition to being more modern, it is also a bit more sporty. I mean, the watch comes on a nylon strap! This is a piece that feels just as at home in the boardroom as it does in a cafe.

Overall, the Starwheel is a great expansion of the Code 11.59 collection. It is actually pretty rare for a brand to improve upon an original watch so dramatically (case in point, the best Royal Oak is still the original, uncomplicated ultra-thin), but occasionally a brand will take something good and make it great. IWC recently did so with the Ingenieur line and AP has definitely done so with the Code 11.59 Starwheel

Versus the Competition

If you like the wandering hours and retrograde minutes complication of the Code 11.59 Starwheel, but it is just too traditional for you, consider the Urwerk UR-202 AlTiN. The UR-202 features a similar complication, but in Urwerk’s iconic and ultra-modern UFO-esque case design. While the Code 11.59 Starwheel is modern and sporty, the UR-202 AITiN brings this to completely new level. This piece, or really any Urwerk for that matter, is a statement on your wrist. 

You like the Code 11.59 and the Starwheel’s aventurine dial, but want a more traditional complication in your watch? The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar with aventurine dial is a great choice. Just as much a conversation starter as the Starwheel, the Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar features a similar 41mm white gold case, aventurine dial, and of course, a perpetual calendar complication. 

Final Thoughts

Complications do not have to be functional for collectors to enjoy them. The wandering hours and retrograde minutes of the Code 11.59 Starwheel don’t add any functionality to the watch, but that’s not why we love it. Seeing the rotating discs and blue aventurine dial adds a little bit of fun and uniqueness to a hobby that often sees the same piece created over and over again by different brands (and sometimes by the same brand…). AP itself has been accused of this with the Royal Oak, but with the Code 11.59 Starwheel, the brand has shown that they can create something different, even while reaching back into their archives. Well done!

See more of the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Starwheel Ref. 15212NB.OO.A002KB.01

Visit europeanwatch.com

Not too long ago, I genuinely wondered about the future of Only Watch. The buzzy charity auction for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy has garnered all kinds of attention recently, though not always for the right reasons. In particular, some serious questioning of the organization’s financials raised enough red flags to put the auction on pause from its original November 2023 date until May 10th of 2024. In the end, the participating brands found the disclosures shared by the organization to be complete enough to continue with the sale, depending on what corner of the internet you’re in though, the jury is still out.

We’ll pin that controversy to the sidebar for the time being, as the auction has come and gone, with the sale of the all 47 lots totaling a whopping CHF 28,320,000. Before getting to the highlights of the sale, there’s more drama to unpack. Some have wondered if better results could have been achieved had all online bidding not been halted across all auctions being held by Christie’s due to what the firm has referred to as a “technology security incident.” The Christie’s Auctions website went down ahead of the auction and stayed down through the weekend, begging the question as to whether or not this attack was in any way related to the aforementioned Only Watch debacle; sadly, I doubt we’ll ever know. 

Beyond the drama of it all, there are always results that surprise in one way or another, so let’s get into it, shall we?

The Big Ticket Winners

We all knew that (as always) the one-of-one Patek at Only Watch would be the champion of the auction, and this year was no different. The guilloché dial Patek Philippe ref. 6301A Grande Sonnerie sold for CHF 15.7 million, accounting for a major chunk of the event’s fundraising. In contrast, it was the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique that surprised the majority of the room, pulling in north of two million franks. Rexhep’s creations have been attracting tons of attention in collector circles, with demand far outweighing supply, but even still this figure is an impressive result all around. 

Then again, this wasn’t the only big winner from the broad field of indies. FP Journe’s Only Watch contribution also cracked the two million mark, with an integrated sports watch version of the Chronomètre Bleu dubbed “Furtif Bleu”. With a full tantalum case and bracelet, this new reference ticked all the right boxes when it comes to our expectations for Journe at the biannual auction.

Both Moritz Grossman and Petermann Bédat doubled their respective auction estimates this year, both showing rather conservative executions overall. For the latter, the movement adopts the Petermann Bédat’s swan-neck regulator system, while Auffret Paris’s aesthetic codes are seen on the click system, and the charbonnage at the surface of the bridges. For Moritz Grossmann, a simple yet elegant tremblage dial in German Silver sealed the deal. To be frank, this one was a bit of a surprise, especially considering the other reasonable buys that were made at the auction.

The (near) Bargains

As is the case with any major watch auction, there were some pieces that seemed to just glide by folks that were placing bids. If one thing is clear, it is that the interest in louder and more outlandish designs is tapering rapidly. Case in point, The Octo Finissimmo Tourbillon Marble. This brilliant execution of a fantastic watch kept within its estimate, pulling in a modest CHF 190,000. Why so modest, you might ask? Simply because there’s nothing else on the market quite like this, and to execute such a finish on a dangerously slim, award-winning tourbillon is a huge departure from the “slap a new dial on it” method delivered by nearly half of the auction’s entries.

Next up is the Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer — a stunning watch in any form, and the 2021 winner of the GPHG’s Innovation prize. A watch with a retail of over a hundred and fifty grand in the US, it was somehow scooped up at the auction for only CHF 45,000. This wasn’t just a bargain, it was highway robbery.

Last but not least, the results for the Trilobe Réconciliation were a big disappointment, though I can only presume this is due to the slightly polarizing design execution. It was inspired by the Japanese art of Kintsugi, which involves repairing broken objects with gold. In execution, the all-black watch was spattered with indents and imperfections throughout its indices and movement components, which then were applied with gold leaf. Though not to everyone’s tastes, CHF 17,000 for a unique execution was another spectacular buy.

What Comes Next?

Post-auction, there has been a lingering buzz about what comes next for the organization. If you ask us, we’re confident that they’ll stay the course. Timing is iffy, given the delay from last fall to this spring, but in theory the next Only Watch could come as early as 2025. Whether the non-profit will stick with Christie’s Auction House or move elsewhere has yet to be determined, but given the strong overall result (shy of the few missteps), we don’t doubt that many brands will be happy to continue participating. 

As for me, my feelings still remain mixed. While I love seeing the assortment of one-off watches come to market for a good cause, the amount of bluster surrounding the lack of transparency from the charity still leaves a bit of a sour taste in my mouth. Add to that the perpetual questions surrounding the auction market and claims of money laundering, and part of me thinks it’s just a matter of time before the proverbial other shoe begins to drop. Then again, if that hasn’t slowed the auction market yet, what’s to say that anything will change now?

Among the most contentious discussions in the watch collecting world is the merits of vintage versus modern watches. Dyed in the wool vintage collectors will sing the praises of charismatic designs, smaller cases, and an era when manufacturing and finishing were more dependent on highly skilled hand work. Fans of modern watches, on the other hand, often cite improved durability, more exact manufacturing tolerances, and better finishing, even if it is all aided by computerized manufacturing techniques.

Given all this, it is not uncommon for brands to try to offer collectors the best of both both worlds. In recent years, many have offered “revival” models that are essentially recreations of vintage watches executed using modern manufacturing techniques and materials. This combination gives collectors the opportunity to own a vintage-looking watch with all the modern reliability they’ve come to expect. When Patek Philippe jumped on the revival train with a favorite from the 20th century, they remained faithful to the size, design, and even to the movement inside. With some slight tweaks and a unique color way, Patek Philippe offered a select group of collectors the opportunity to add a true time capsule of a watch to their collection with the 3940P-027 “Vintage Collection.”

History

Patek Philippe created the first serial produced perpetual calendar watch in 1941 with the reference 1526 and the brand’s modern history has been intimately linked to the complication ever since. In 1951, Patek unveiled the reference 2497, which was the first serial produced perpetual calendar with a centrally mounted sweeping seconds hand. The reference 3448, unveiled in 1962, was the first automatic winding perpetual calendar wristwatch. The reference 3450 replaced the 3448 in 1981 and added a leap year cycle indicator. Clearly Patek Philippe has always been a leader when it comes to perpetual calendars.

The Caliber 240, which is the base movement for the 240 Q in the 3940 being reviewed here, was first unveiled in 1977. It is an ultra-thin, micro-rotor movement, and was actually the thinnest self-winding movement in the world when it was released. Interestingly, Patek Philippe brought the Caliber 240 to market in the immediate aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, seemingly doubling down on their commitment to fine mechanical watchmaking. Indeed, the Caliber 240 would go on to become a platform for countless other complications later on in its life.

The reference 3940 was launched in 1985 and was in serial production all the way to its official discontinuation in 2007. This remarkable 22 year run gave the 3940 the longest production run of any Patek Philippe watch in history. Company president Philippe Stern paid the reference the ultimate compliment by choosing it as his daily wear. Again, in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, to place such intense pressure on complicated mechanical timepieces was a bold move on Patek Philippe’s part. The length of production and Philippe Stern’s personal stamp of approval seemingly signified that Patek was confident that high-end complicated watchmaking was never going away.

Although the model was discontinued in 2007, Patek Philippe wanted to offer their best clients something special for the brand’s 175th anniversary in 2018. They offered these V-VIP’s the opportunity to order watches in special configurations, including platinum cases with blue dials. The 3940 was clearly an important reference for the brand and the model was still incredibly desirable with collectors. Making this reference available again in a unique format to preferred clients more than a decade after its official discontinuation was a massive “thank you” to their most loyal of clients. Only two examples of the 3940P-027 have been sold on the public market, making them highly valuable and collectable over standard 3940s. 

Design Details

There are a couple unique aspects to this particular 3940 that should be pointed out. First is the deep blue dial, a color that was never offered during the 3940’s original production run. Second, is the updated dial font and leaf style hands, seemingly taken from the later reference 5140. 

Additionally, the watch features a 9 o’clock subdial for the day-night and weekday complications, a 6 o’clock subdial displays the date and moonphase, and a 3 o’clock subdial displays the month and leap-year indication. The 36mm platinum case is a new-old stock piece leftover from the original 3940 production run (which makes this watch a bit more than “vintage inspired”). Unlike most current models from Patek Philippe, this reference remains faithful to the original platinum 3940 and only comes with a solid platinum case back. So no, you don’t get to see the movement on display. While modern platinum Patek Philippe references include small diamonds inset into the case between the lugs at 6 o’clock, the 3940P-027 forgoes this, maintaining the more conventional, “old-school” aesthetic.

Inner Workings

Behind the solid platinum case back is the aforementioned Caliber 240 Q. The automatic micro-rotor movement has 27 jewels, beats at 21,600 bph, and has a 48-hour power reserve. Additionally, it features a perpetual calendar with date, month, day/night indicator via a 24-hour dial, small seconds, moonphase, and leap year indication. 

Unique to this watch is the use of new-old stock movements. Patek Philippe switched from the traditional Geneval Seal to their proprietary Patek Philippe Seal in 2009, indicating a higher level of movement finishing. Even though this watch was assembled in 2018, Patek Philippe decided to continue using the older movements with the Geneva Seal. Even though the origins of this caliber date back to 1985 with the release of the 3940, Patek Philippe continues to manufacture the Caliber 240 Q today (albeit now with the Patek Philippe Seal). 

Personality

The Patek Philippe 3940P-027 is a timepiece that really speaks to the brand’s heritage. These special pieces were only offered to established clients of the brand and Thierry Stern (son of Philippe and current president of Patek Philippe) has made it clear that Patek Philippe is a brand focused on precious metals and complicated timepieces. While the combination of the blue dial and platinum case is special for the 3940, the 36mm wide case and white metal is still conservative and under the radar in appearance. The only people who will notice the watch are other well informed watch enthusiasts. Any 3940 could easily be the highlight of any collection, but the 3940P-027 is for the collector looking for something truly unique, even when compared to other rare and highly coveted Patek Philippe watches. 

Versus the Competition

When thinking of alternatives to the 3940P-027, there are fortunately a number of haute horology perpetual calendars available. To highlight some of the alternatives available, below are two more attainable options, and two that rival the exclusivity of the 3940P-027.

Potentially obvious, but, if you can forgo the blue dial and ultra-rare status of the 3940P-027, you could always seek out a great regular production Patek Philippe 3940P. Same case, same solid case back, same platinum deployant buckle, and same movement within. Regular production examples of the 3940P can frequently be found for less than half of what the 3940P-027 currently goes for. 

Deviating from the famed Swiss brand, the A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual in Platinum is a great option. With a display back that offers a view of A. Lange & Söhne’s beautiful movement finishing, the dial side features all of the perpetual calendar functions of the 3940 in addition to A. Lange & Söhne’s iconic oversized double digit date window. The case is slightly larger at 38.5mm in diameter and the display back and tang buckle mean that you get less platinum with your watch. With prices well below the six-figure mark though, the reduced amount of precious metal may be a worthy sacrifice to own something that is equally as amazing as the 3940. 

Mirroring some of the exclusivity of the 3940P-027, the F.P. Journe Black Label series is only offered to existing F.P. Journe clients through brand-owned boutiques. The F.P. Journe Black Label Octa Quantieme Perpetual Calendar is larger than both the 3940 and the Langematik, but still conservative at 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick. Again, the watch comes with a display case back, but the F.P. Journe still packs a lot of platinum along with a gorgeous 18k rose gold movement.

If the ultimate in exclusivity and unique design are paramount for your next perpetual calendar, the Vianney Halter Antiqua Perpetual Calendar in platinum with yellow gold dials is second to none. The solid platinum case requires 900 hours to construct and only five examples in this specific configuration were produced. The design is not for everyone, but for those who must distinguish their pieces from those of other collectors, it hard to do better than this fantastical Vianney Halter. 

Final Thoughts

Patek Philippe rightfully has the reputation as the creator of some of the best watches available in the world. With a mix of quality, exclusivity, and notable history, it makes sense that even serially produced models retain their value and are coveted by collectors. When unique combinations such as the 3940P-027 are offered to long-time clients, it makes sense that they would jump at the opportunity.

For the Patek Philippe collector who has to have the best example of any watch that they add to their collection, the Patek Philippe 3940P-027 is certainly one of the top perpetual calendars ever created. With the 3940 representing such a large part of Patek Philippe’s modern history, the 3940P-027 is truly a love letter to a model that helped transition Patek Philippe from the 20th to the 21st century, and to the clients that helped make it happen!

See more of the Patek Philippe 3940P-027 Vintage Collection

Visit europeanwatch.com

We all love and appreciate the iconic designs that have come to dominate the collecting world over the years. Timepieces like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, and Rolex Daytona are classics that will never go out of style. That being said, we also love and appreciate watchmakers who are producing bold, innovative, industry-defying designs. With that in mind, we thought we would take a look at 10 of the most unique (some might even say crazy) watches that have come through the doors of European Watch Company.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

Price: $80,000-$90,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold.

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 burst onto the scene in 2019 to less than enthusiastic reviews, but the collection has slowly grown in appreciation and popularity since. Some might even argue that the it is the Code 11.59 , not the Royal Oak, has become the platform for experimentation at Audemars Piguet. Case in point – the Code 11.59 Starwheel. Based on the original Ref. 25720BA Starwheel from 1991, this variation takes a more modern and visually interesting approach. In addition to the mesmerizing rotating hour discs and retrograde minutes scale, the outer portion of the dial has a beautiful, out of this world aventurine pattern. If you want an AP that will surely be a conversation starter, the Code 11.59 Starwheel is definitely a great choice.

Our review of the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Starwheel is available here.

Konstantin Chaykin Joker

Price: N.A., Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium.

Independent watch brands are often willing to take more chances than other brands, and perhaps no independent brand is more representative of that daredevil ethos than Konstantin Chaykin. Founded in Russia in 2003 by Konstantin Chaykin, the brand produces a very limited number of hand-crafted watches each year (around 200-250 pieces). Perhaps the most well-known, and most daring, of Chaykin’s designs, is the Joker. The Joker resembles, you guessed it, the joker of Batman lore. The whole dial is a face with two googly eyes making up the hours and minutes subdials with each pupil pointing to the corresponding hour or minute. There is also a large tongue at 6 o’clock that functions as a moon phase and adds to the silliness (or villainy?) of the watch. The watch doesn’t take itself too seriously, but there clearly is some serious watchmaking behind it. If you don’t need something that is Swiss, this limited edition piece is for the collector that really is looking for something different.

Check out our full review of the Konstantin Chaykin Joker.

MB&F HM10 Bulldog

Price: $85,000-$100,000, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 24mm, Lug-to-Lug: 54mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium.

You really can’t have a list of crazy watches and not include an MB&F, particularly a watch from the brand’s Horological Machine collection. As opposed to the Legacy Machine line, MB&F’s Horological Machines are more playful, art-focused pieces and the HM10 Bulldog is about as playful as you can get. As the name suggests, the whole watch is meant to look like a Bulldog, with the articulating lugs representing the dog’s legs and the front-facing power reserve the dog’s mouth (when the mouth is open the watch has a full reserve and it closes as the reserve is depleted). While this watch looks like no other MB&F (or any other watch period!), the brand’s hallmarks still remain. Most notably the flying balance wheel, which is visible when looking at the watch from above, successfully ties the HM10 Bulldog to the rest of MB&F’s catalog. One among many interesting designs from MB&F, check out the whole Horological Machine collection to see an array of unique watches.

Our review of the MB&F HM10 Bulldog is available here.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual

Price: $175,000-$185,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 17.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 24mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold.

Some may say that the Legacy Machine is MB&F’s more restrained and conventional collection, however, conventional for MB&F is not conventional for most other brands! The dial of the Legacy Machine Perpetual is completely openworked, displaying the dizzying array of the watch’s mechanics just under the high-domed crystal and perpetual calendar complication. And on top of everything? You guessed it, MB&F’s signature flying balance wheel. While there is clearly a lot going on dial side, we don’t think it is too overwhelming. And who doesn’t like to see all the inner workings of their luxury timepiece on display while on the wrist?

Check out our review of the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual here.

Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down

Price: $120,000-$130,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum.

Upon first glance, you might think this Ludovic Ballouard is just a strange watch with upside down hour numerals. And yes it is that. But lurking underneath the seemingly simple exterior is some seriously complicated watchmaking. Once you learn how the watch works, there is a true “a-ha” moment and you quickly appreciate the watch all the more. The single large hand on the main dial is the minute hand. So how do you tell the hours? Well, the upside down hour marker flips to right-side up during that hour. This presents an easy and seriously innovative way to tell time that we’ve never seen before. It’s pretty clear why the Upside Down has become so coveted in collectors’ circles.

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” Ref. 405.034

Price: $225,000-$235,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum.

One doesn’t typically associate crazy design choices with a brand like A. Lange & Sohne. Yet, watches like the Zeitwerk and the Lange 1 are actually pretty unique and iconic in their own right. It’s the Lumen series that really catches our eye as the most daring pieces in Lange’s collection, though, and the Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” Ref. 405.034 is among our favorites. On the Lumen, the typical Datograph design aesthetic gets the transparent treatment through the use of a smoked sapphire dial. This allows you not only to see some of the inner workings of the watch, but also the luminous date numbers even when they aren’t in the date window. Additionally, the outer edge of the dial and both chronograph subdials are also fully lumed, offering a treat when you look at this watch in the dark.

Our review of the A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” Ref. 405.034 is available here.

F.P. Journe Vagabondage III

Price: $355,000-$365,000, Case Size: 37.6mm, Thickness: 7.84mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum.

F.P. Journe has its own distinct design ethos and has created more than their fair share of unique models over the years. When Journe does something really crazy, like they did with the Vagabondage III, people pay attention. The Vagabondage III is unlike anything else from Journe (except maybe the Vagabondage I and II…) and has not only a jumping hour complication, but it is the first watch ever to employ a jumping seconds complication. It truly is a sight to behold in person.

Vianney Halter Antiqua

Price: $350,000-$360,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Platinum.

Vianney Halter might not be as much of a household name as F.P. Journe, but we would argue that he should be. Since the 1990s, Halter has been creating mechanical marvels under his eponymous brand with recent releases like the the Deep Space Tourbillon and Deep Space Resonance, showcasing the brand’s staying power. The earlier pieces, like the steampunk Antiqua shown here, paved the way. The Antiqua is an easy to read perpetual calendar with complications that Halter isolated into four completely separate dials. And while the funky, asymmetrical shape of the case makes it look like it will wear large, it fits perfectly wearable even on those with modest-sized wrists.

Make sure to check out our review of the Vianney Halter Antique.

Cartier Crash

Price: $265,000-$275,000, Case Size: 22.5mm, Thickness: 8.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 38.5mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Yellow Gold.

There is an urban legend that the Cartier Crash was born out of a Baignoire Allongée that was involved in car crash. Unfortunately this is just a legend, but that doesn’t make us appreciate the Dali-esque, surreal design of the Crash any less. The watch looks like its melting on your wrist and is an understated presence that commands respect unlike anything else in the watch world. Maybe that’s why the watch is having such a moment in the current cultural zeitgeist.

You can read our full review of the Cartier Crash here.

Zenith Defy Zero G

Price: $134,800, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 15.2mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Rose Gold.

The biggest criticism of a tourbillon is the fact that many argue it is useless in a modern day wristwatch. Meant to counteract the effects of gravity on a pocket watch (while in a stationary position), this complication was no longer necessary once watches migrated from the pocket to the constantly-moving wrist. Zenith took this to heart and created the Defy Zero G. The watch boasts a tourbillon-esque gyroscopic “Gravity Control” regulating organ module that was meant to counteract the effects of gravity no matter the position the watch is in. Is it necessary? Probably not. Does it look cool? It most definitely does. It’s always nice to see brands pushing the envelope and trying to evolve complications into something a little bit more useful!

Check out our review of the Zenith Defy Zero G.

This week, European Watch Company and Assouline announced the launch of The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces, a 304 page coffee table book tribute to the best of watchmaking, from Rolex and Patek Philippe to F.P. Journe, Breguet, Longines and much more. The book is the result of almost two years of hard work, and all the watches featured were once part of European Watch Company’s inventory (an inventory that is second to none in the industry). 

In celebration of the monumental launch, Joshua Ganjei, CEO of European Watch Company, and Alex Assouline, ASSOULINE’s Chief of Operations, Brand and Strategy, hosted a book launch press review at ASSOULINE’s New York boutique in the Meatpacking District. Members of the EWC and ASSOULINE teams, prominent watch media platforms, industry executives, and more, all gathered to celebrate the launch of an incredibly special book. 

Between hors d’oeuvres, champagne, and conversation, Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s Head of Watches for the Americas, moderated a panel with Joshua Ganjei and Alex Assouline. Both Joshua and Alex spoke to the experience of working with each other’s brands, the record speed in which the book was put together, the creative process that underpinned the book’s creation, and more. 

Perhaps most importantly, Joshua and Alex reflected on how for both European Watch Company and Assouline, The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces coincides with two 30-year anniversaries. As much as the press review was a celebration of the exceptional book, it was also a tribute to 30 years for both EWC and ASSOULINE. Joshua spoke about the future for European Watch Company, the experience of working alongside his father Albert, and the passion for watches that led them to the completion of the capstone of 30 years— The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces. Similarly, Alex spoke about how EWC’s team complemented ASSOULINE’s values, and made the creation of this book so meaningful for him and his family.

Following the panel, guests returned to marveling over the incredible watches featured in the book, comparing watches, discussing the true achievement this is for both brands, and much conversation among many industry friends and colleagues. 

Be sure to check out The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces for yourself, to look at some of the most important, collectable watches in the industry, and to learn the stories behind each of them. Every watch selected had a unique aspect to add to the continuum of watch collecting. Together, this book is truly a toast to the best of collecting, to European Watch Company, and to ASSOULINE, all bound in a single slip case masterpiece. 

Get a copy for yourself here.

Ever since the Reverso’s introduction all the way back in 1931, this unique timepiece has been revered as a fan favorite. With its unique flipping case, distinctive Art Deco styling, and iconic origin story, the Reverso has captured the attention of generations of watch collectors and has served as the bedrock upon which Jaeger-LeCoultre has built much of its brand. If you are looking for a modern take on the original Reverso, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Calendar Ref. Q3918420 is a great place to start. Let’s take a look!

History

We’ve covered the history of the Reverso a number of times in the past— if you need a refresher, check out our previous post here – but for a quick summary, here are the top line details. The Reverso was born when Swiss businessman Cesar de Trey attended a polo match in India and subsequently challenged his watchmaker friend Jaques-David LeCoultre to build a watch designed specifically for the sport — one that would protect the watch crystal from mallets during play, but also retain functionality as a wristwatch when not on the field. Never one to turn down a challenge, LeCoultre enlisted the help of Jaeger SA and Rene Alfred Chauvot and together, the patent for the original Reverso was filed. The 1931 patent office received an application to create “a watch capable of sliding in its support and being completely turned over”. The idea was simple: the case could be flipped over during a polo match to protect the watch from the rigors of the sport, and then after could be worn with the dial facing out, functioning as a normal wristwatch. 

After the model’s launch in 1931, Jaeger SA merged with LeCoultre’s movement manufacturer, and Jaeger-LeCoultre was formed. The Reverso was instrumental in the formation of the company that we now know as JLC, and in turn, the thousands of watches that have come from the brand since. Historically, the Reverso is not only a beautiful watch, it’s also extremely significant for JLC and its early development.

Design Details

One of the greatest aspects of any JLC is the intense attention to detail paid to all of their pieces, something you don’t frequently see in their price range. While the Reverso Tribute Calendar is in many aspects a modern interpretation of the classic Reverso, there are some significant differences. This piece has a “Duoface” configuration unlike the original Reverso, which had a solid caseback. Duoface variants are characterized by a second dial on the reverse side, capable of being set to a second time zone. This is not only a practical complication, it also makes for one of the greatest conversation starters in the entire industry. You’re basically getting two watches for the price of one when you buy a Duoface Reverso.

This particular Reverso doesn’t stop there though. In addition to the second dial, this piece also features a complete calendar. This means it displays the day and month (in aperture form in this case) and the date and moonphase at six o’clock. Conversely, the reverse side has a day/ night indicator, which is useful if you choose to use this watch as a dual time or travel piece. 

As discussed earlier, you really are getting “two watches for one” with this piece. JLC is fantastic at giving Duoface Reverso owners two beautiful yet unique dials to choose from and enjoy. In this case, the front side of the dial is a textured white while the reverse is a beautiful blue sunburst. Having two personalities in the same watch is a pretty incredible party trick!

While the Reverso Tribute Calendar is very much a modern evolution of the original Reverso, there are still many aspects of the watch that pay tribute to the original. Like the original Reverso, the case is fashioned from stainless steel — befitting of a watch originally designed as a sports piece. The case and dial are designed to reflect the Art Deco details of the 1930s with grooves on the upper and lower portion of the flipping assembly and a railroad minute track on the dial much like the other watches from the era. The details of this piece truly reflect an understanding of the heritage of the model and the era in which the watch was released in 1931. 

Inner Workings

As you might imagine, the caliber 853 powering the Reverso Tribute Calendar is far from your typical movement. Designed to control the time and complication displays for both sides of the Reverso all from a single caliber, JLC had to rework much of the layout to accommodate a two-sided movement. That’s always been one of the most interesting and impressive aspects of the Duoface. In spite of all the power drain from two time displays and the multiple complications, the caliber 853 affords a solid 42-hour power reserve while showing day, month, date, moonphase, day/ night, and an additional hour hand. 

On Duoface variants of the Reverso, you get the added ability of adjusting the second time zone independent from the first. On the top of the case (the part that is hidden when the watch is fully flipped), there’s a small slide that you can use to adjust the hour hand on the second side of the watch in one hour increments. This makes the Reverso Duoface a great option for travel, and a breeze to set on the fly. JLC considered what would be most convenient and worked it into the movement architecture. It’s always nice to see that a brand is paying attention and thinking of end users when designing their pieces!

Personality 

The Reverso is pretty universally appreciated among watch collecting circles. However, if you’re a lover of dress watches, the Reverso is really a must have– and this particular variant, with the added complications and Duoface configuration only make its that much more special. If you’re not a dress watch person, the Reverso is still a great conversation starter and is still wearable as an everyday watch (especially given its heritage). Plus, with the Reverso Tribute Calendar in particular, the second, blue sunray dial, has a sportier feel than those found on traditional models. The universal appeal of the Reverso is one of the reasons the model line has become so iconic for JLC and why the collection serves as a conduit to lead collectors to other models that they may not have been paying attention to. 

Versus the Competition

There are a number of alternatives that should be considered alongside the Reverso Tribute Calendar in stainless steel. First is the Cartier Basculante, an obscure Tank model with its own flipping case. Released shortly after the Reverso, the Basculante was designed to achieve a similar effect. That said, the Basculante has only very rarely offered two dials. In almost all cases, the back side of the flipping watch was left blank for engraving purposes. 

Next, I’d recommend the JLC Reverso Tribute to 1931. We know, we know, it seems odd to say “if you’re considering a Reverso, allow us to show you this OTHER Reverso”, but the Tribute to 1931 is a bit more traditional than the Tribute Calendar. Not a duoface, the JLC Tribute to 1931 is based on the original format of the Reverso from 1931 and simply scales up that early reference for modern wrists in a unique homage to early JLC. If you want the modern extension of the original Reverso, this is the one to pick. 

Last, for a dual time complication also configured in a rectangular case, consider the Cartier Tank Cintrée Dual Time. Dating to the 1990 Cartier Privee Collection Paris, this rare beauty tracks two time zones, but on the same front facing dial. It’s a really funky, collectable piece of Cartier history, and I love it for its quirkiness. Perhaps a bit louder than the Reverso, I think the collector that wants this type of thing will know it’s for them immediately. 

Final Thoughts

With luxury watches, it’s easy to geek out about stats, obsess over details, or get bogged down in lengthy histories. While the Reverso Tribute Calendar certainly offers enough to satisfy any collector in those areas, the best thing about this watch is the way it makes collectors feel. Reversos, and Duofaces in particular, have a lot of personality. There’s a level of romantic appeal that goes beyond stats or facts. It’s these emotions that keep us coming back for more. Be sure to check out the Reverso Tribute Calendar for yourself, and I’m confident you’ll see exactly what I mean!

See more of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Calendar Stainless Steel Ref. Q3918420

Visit europeanwatch.com

In the crowded category of “tool watches”, pilot watches are an incredibly popular variant. While they may not be quite as popular as dive watches, the heritage and unique design language has landed them solidly among the favorites of collectors everywhere. Pilot watches anchor the entire catalogs of brands such as IWC and Breitling (among others) and because of this, we thought we would put together a list of 12 of our favorite models that have been through European Watch Company’s doors. Before we get into that, though, allow us to provide some background on the pilot watch and how they came to be.

What is a Pilot’s Watch?

The question of what makes a watch a pilot’s watch can be difficult to answer. Not all pilot watches are the same or even offer the same functionality, but there are certain features that are seen more often than not. First and foremost, pilot’s watches tend to have extremely legible dials that are quick and easy to read at a glance. To aid in legibility, they tend to be larger in size with oversized white Arabic numerals on their dials. Many were designed to assist pilots in making quick calculations (especially since most pilot watches were developed prior to computers). The Rolex GMT-Master had two time-zones so pilots could easily determine both the local time and the time at their destination. The Breitling Navitimer had a slide rule integrated into its bezel so pilots could easily make calculations related to time and distance while in flight. You often also see pilot watches with chronographs which aid in time and distance calculations. Bottom line, aviation watches need to be legible and also be able to aid a pilot in their flight and navigation.

When were Pilot Watches First Developed?

Pilot watches date back to the early 1900s. Indeed, it was just a year after Wright Brother’s first flight in 1903 that Louis Cartier developed the Santos, the first pilot’s watch, for friend and aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont. Santos-Dumont needed a legible watch that he could quickly check while in flight. The Santos, with its white dial and large Roman numeral indexes, fit the bill.

What are our Favorite Pilot Watches?

In this guide, we put together a list of 12 of our favorite pilot watches. From historically significant pieces like the Cartier Santos and Breitling Navitimer, to the more recent H. Moser & Cie Heritage Pilot, there is a little something for everyone. Let’s dive in!

Cartier Santos

Price: $6,000-$7,000, Case Size: 40mm x 47.5mm, Thickness: 9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel

When it comes to pilot watches, the Cartier Santos is the undisputed original. Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian inventor and aviator, asked his friend Louis Cartier to design him a watch that could easily be used during flight. Cartier delivered the iconic Santos that we have come to know and love, in wristwatch form instead of the more popular pocket watches of the time which allowed Santos-Dumont to easily check the time while in flight. Since its debut in 1904, the Santos has become one of Cartier’s most iconic watches, and due to its heritage and timeless style, the Santos is not only one of our favorite pilot watches, but one of our favorite stainless steel sport watches as well.

IWC Big Pilot Ref. IW501001

Price: $8,500-$9,000, Case Size: 46mm, Thickness: 15.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 56.1mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 60M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel

We would venture to guess that when most collectors think of pilot watches, they likely think of IWC. And among IWC’s vast catalog of pilot watches, the Big Pilot is the most iconic. From it’s black dial and bright white Arabic numerals to its power reserve indicator and onion crown, this watch is made for utility. At 46.2mm in diameter, it might be too large for some wrists, but you can’t deny its legibility. If you are looking for a pilot’s watch with some serious heritage, the IWC Big Pilot is a great option.

IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Rodeo Drive Limited Edition IW503001

Price: $20,000-$22,000, Case Size: 46.5mm, Thickness: 16mm, Lug-to-Lug: 58.9mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 6 BAR, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Ceramic

Besides the pilot watch, IWC is probably best known for one other complication, the perpetual calendar. Many of their most iconic models, including the Portugieser and Big Pilot, have been fitted with perpetual calendars. If you like the style of the Big Pilot, but want something a little out of the ordinary, the IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Rodeo Drive Ref. IW503001 is a perfect fit. The watch features all the hallmarks of a Big Pilot, but, instead of a steel case, this model features one made of black ceramic. Add in the blue sunray dial and you have a highly capable piece with just the right amount of flash.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph

Price: $5,000-$6,000, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.1mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel 

One of the most famous, and indeed most useful, pilot watches is the Breitling Navitimer. First released in 1954, the Navitimer not only includes a chronograph, but a slide rule bezel as well. This unique feature allows the wearer to perform multiple different calculations related to time, speed, distance, and conversions very quickly, which in the earlier days of flight, was extremely helpful to pilots. Do you need a slide rule bezel when flying a modern airplane (or when sitting at your desk…)? Probably not, but we appreciate the Navitimer for its deep history and functionality. Now we just need to figure out how to use a slide ruler…

Patek Philippe Ref. 5520P-001

Price: $140,000-$170,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50.8mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Platinum

A Patek Philippe Grand Complication probably isn’t what you think of first when you think of pilot watches, but the 5520P-001 is both. The 5520P boasts a travel time complication and a 24-hour alarm that chimes using a gong instead of the standard memovox style alarm. On top of these complications are month and date apertures at 12 o’clock plus a classic vintage-inspired pilot watch aesthetic with big, blocky hour markers. If you are looking for an ultra-complicated pilot watch from a premium brand, the 5520P is a great option.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G

Price: $90,000-$100,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13.05mm, Lug-to-Lug: 52mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold

Patek Philippe has really leaned into pilot watches in recent years and among our favorites is the ref. 5924G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph. While the watch is very similar in style to the 5520P seen above, this white gold timepiece only features dual time and chronograph complications. The real star of the show, however, is the dazzling sunray blue dial that is just stunning. Unlike most of the blue sunray dials we see on watches, the 5924G features a unique light blue color that you just don’t see often.

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

Price: $9,000-$11,000, Case Size: 42.5mm, Thickness: 14.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51.4mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel

Zenith is another brand that has more than its fair share of heritage in the pilot watch category and in 2023, they completely updated their offering. Gone was the vintage-inspired Type 20 (which we actually love) replaced by a more modern collection that includes the Big Date Flyback Chronograph. The Big Date Flyback is one of our favorites from the new collection thanks to its big date and pop of red and green on the dial and chronograph seconds hand. If you are looking for a more contemporary pilot, Zenith is the brand to look at.

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Pilot Center Seconds Funky Blue Dial

Price: $11,000-$13,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 11.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel 

Moser’s claim to fame has always been their beautiful dials and the Heritage Pilot Center Seconds with Funky Blue Dial doesn’t disappoint. The watch features a very retro-pilot aesthetic, from the onion crown to the narrow, wire-inspired lugs and vintage typeface. This is all contrasted by the very modern blue sunray gradient dial. For the collector looking for a blend of modern and vintage, the Moser Heritage Pilot Center Seconds is a great choice.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

Price: $4,500-$5,500 Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Hesalite, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Stainless Steel

Are astronauts pilots? Is a hot dog a sandwich? We would argue that they most definitely are (we think) and what is the watch most associated with astronauts? Well that would be the Omega Speedmaster. Famously, the Speedmaster was the first watch worn on the Moon, after being the only piece to pass NASA’s rigorous testing. We might be biased, but we’re pretty sure that fact alone gives the Speedy the street cred to be considered a pilot’s watch.

Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi Ref. 126710BLRO

Price: $20,000-$22,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48.1mm, Lug Width: 20M, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel

The story goes that in the 1950s Pan-Am (the now defunct airline), approached Rolex about designing a watch for their pilots that allowed them to track multiple time zones (the time at home and at their destination). The result was the original Rolex GMT-Master with red and blue (Pepsi) bezel. Why did Rolex include a dual-colored bezel? It allowed the pilots to easily distinguish between day and night. Pilot’s watch pedigrees don’t get much more storied than that!

Rolex Air-King Ref. 126900

Price: $8,500-$9,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.4mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel 

The Air-King is Rolex’s other pilot watch. Unlike every other Rolex watch, the Air-King foregoes typical hour indexes (besides 3, 6 and 9 o’clock) for a minutes scale. This allows pilots to better compute departure and arrival times on the fly. Beyond its functionality, the watch retains a classic look and has gone through very few changes over the years. Looking for a Rolex with aviation heritage (including being worn by British pilots during World War II)? Look at the Air-King.

Tudor Black Bay GMT Ref. 79830RB

Price: $3,000-$3,500, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 14.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50.2mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 200M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel

While the Tudor Black Bay GMT doesn’t have the heritage of the Rolex GMT-Master II, it shares common DNA. It absolutely qualifies as a pilot’s watch and is especially appealing to those looking for something a little more affordable than a Rolex. The Black Bay GMT even features the blue and red “Pepsi” bezel found on the original GMT-Master. And if you are one of the many collectors jonesing for a Rolex “Coke” bezel that has been out of production for years now, Tudor just released a 39mm Black Bay GMT with a black and red bezel. Touche Tudor, touche.

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down is point blank, one of the best chronographs ever made. The watch not only has an iconic design, but a superbly finished in-house manual wind movement. Released in 1999, only 5 years after the relaunch of the brand, it was the Datograph that really brought Lange to the forefront of the watch industry. And while the brand has stayed pretty conservative and true to their Germanic design language, Lange has been willing to take some chances. In particular, the Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” Ref. 405.034, with its smoked sapphire dial displaying the inner workings of the movement, showcases Lange’s willingness to take chances.

History

Though A. Lange & Söhne was originally founded in in 1845, its true history is a bit more modern. In the 1990s, Walter Lange, grandson of Lange’s original founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange, relaunched the brand. And the brand began to make waves pretty immediately, creating an in-house manual wind chronograph movement in 1999. To put this achievement in perspective, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet didn’t produce an in-house chronograph for over 150 years of operation. After A. Lange & Söhne released the Datograph, it took another seven years for Patek Philippe to introduce an in-house chronograph. Vacheron and AP took another 16 and 20 years respectively to create their own in-house equivalents. Sufficient to say building an in-house chronograph is extremely difficult, and making one as beautiful as the movement in the Datograph can only be done by A. Lange & Söhne. This is why the Datograph is such a celebrated and collectible timepiece. 

Design Details

With a watch that has been touted as possibly one of the best chronographs ever made, one doesn’t need to update it often, but when A. Lange & Söhne does, it’s meaningful—released in 2010 the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” ref. 405.034 is both very different and very similar to a standard Datograph Up/Down. This is the fourth watch to be given the “Lumen” treatment, and I think it gives this piece a Dr. Jeckyll/Mr. Hyde quality. In daylight, the Datograph is a beautiful watch, and while the trademark big date window stands out, it is an otherwise traditionally designed timepiece. Unless you were to inspect the watch at close range, you would likely think there was nothing different about it. 

Then the sun goes down. Gone is the buttoned-up Dr. Jeckyll of daytime and in his place a green, ominous, glowing Mr. Hyde. As A. Lange & Söhne puts it, this is the chronograph that never sleeps. Every functional display element on this watch is fully lumed. The hour, minutes, and seconds hands obviously, but also the two sub-dials, power reserve indicator, big date window, and the entire rehaut tachymeter scale. If one needed to they would have no issues precisely timing something in total darkness. Even the Date wheel—which spends most of its life underneath the dial—is always fully luminous.

This is achieved by using what A. Lange & Söhne calls a smoked sapphire crystal for the dial. The smokey sapphire is clear enough to let light through but dark enough that the components underneath don’t distract from the top-side read-outs. So while the date numerals are waiting for their big moment in the large window at twelve, they can fully charge their lume. This avoids the date switching over at midnight with no charge leaving it invisible. 

Inner Workings

While the lume drastically changes the appearance of the watch at night, it also adds useful functionality and a touch of flair to an otherwise known quantity. With the Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” you still get all the classic Datograph features that make the watch great. It’s still powered by the caliber L951.7 manually wound chronograph with flyback functionality and 60 hours power reserve. The date pusher is as always at ten o’clock with the chronograph pushers at two and four, and the case is a very wearable 41mm in diameter and 13.4mm thick. It’s 100% Datograph, just more edgy and hip. 

And when you look at the watch through the caseback, you still see what is perhaps the most beautiful movement available in a watch, bar none. And the fact that this movement is a standard finished movement just makes it all the more impressive. Not only is it extremely well-finished, but it is unobstructed by a rotor (it is hand-wound), and has depths and layers that most watch movement’s don’t possess. Its worth the price of admission on its own.

Personality

Many will agree that the Datograph is one of the best looking and most celebrated chronographs on the market. With its timeless and iconic design and impeccable finishing, there is not much not to like. And the Datograph Up/Down Lumen takes a classic piece and adds a little subtle flamboyance. The smoked sapphire dial gives a skeletonized appearance without being overpowering. And when the lights go out, the dial shines even more. Not only are the chronograph’s subdial illuminated, but so are the date numbers, both inside the date window, and outside. This creates a visual interest not regularly seen on Lange models.

Versus the Competition

If you are looking for something even bolder than the Datograph Lumen, the MB&F HM10 “Bulldog” might be for you. Like the Datograph Lumen, this MB&F has a skeletonized dial. The hour markers here are lumed and rotate on two large discs. The big difference between the HM10 and the Datograph is the design language. MB&F’s horological machine line is defined by its bold and out-of-this-world aesthetics. The HM10 was made to look like a Bulldog. So, if you want something even more out-there on your wrist, this could be the watch.

When discussing Lange’s “Lumen” models, one must also discuss the other Lumen model, the Zeitwerk. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 140.035 “Phantom” Lumen takes the Lumen design design aesthetic, including the smoked sapphire dial and lume, to the Lange’s other flagship model. Here there is no date. Instead, the jumping hour markers are lumed and visible both in their display apertures as well as under the smoked dial. This variation is aptly named the “Phantom” due to its platinum case and dark dial aesthetic. Its a great option for the Lange collector that is looking for the ultimate Zeitwerk to add to his/her collection.

Final Thoughts

The “Lumen” update makes this watch appealing to me in a way that the standard Datograph isn’t. I think a lot of people can relate to the contrasts we have within us, sometimes we’re reserved and professional, and other times boisterous and loud. While this is a broadly appealing watch, collectors’ desire for it is further stoked by its rarity. With an MSRP of $100,500 and only 200 ever produced, it’s an extremely scarce variant of an icon that will surely become more collectible as time goes on. To quote Ferris Bueller, “It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.”

See More of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” Ref. 405.034

Visit Europeanwatch.com

Among purists, date windows often get a bad rap for ruining the harmonious symmetry of a dial, daily utility be damned. There is, of course, an exception to this rule of thumb, and that’s the big date. As far as complications go, the big date is a pretty simple one — it’s like a regular date, but supersized. It turns the date from an afterthought into an integral part of the watch’s design. Whether or not you prefer the larger date for extra legibility or just simply to stand out from the crowd, here are some of the best big dates around.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrono Ref. 49150/B01A-9095

The placement and execution of the big date on this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph is a great example of how to do a big date well — it manages to be front and center while not getting in the way of the core chrono functionality. Complications aside, this earlier generation Overseas has all the hallmarks of the iconic design that we’ve grown to know and love — including the Maltese cross-inspired bezel and bracelet. As of today, the Big Date complication hasn’t made its way into the latest Overseas collection, making this 42mm steel model even more of an interesting option!

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph LUMEN Up / Down Ref. 405.034

If any one brand is associated with the Big Date complication, it’s A. Lange & Söhne. The Big Date has been a core part of the German brand’s design identity since its 1994 relaunch and was inspired by a clock in the Semper Opera House in Dresden, close to Lange’s Glashütte home. This Datograph Up/Down Lumen shows off the behind-the-scenes workings of the twin date wheel to spectacular effect, thanks to the smoked sapphire dial.

A. Lange & Sohne Cabaret Ref. 107.031

Defined by its balanced dial with a big date at the top and a small seconds register at the bottom, this elegant Cabaret powered by a matching rectangular in-house movement (designed specifically for this model) was sadly discontinued in 2010. It stands out as something truly exceptional and interesting, a more elegant watch for a more civilized time.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Ref. 363.179

If the Cabaret is the old face of Lange, then the Odysseus is the new one. In 2019, Lange announced their entry into the popular integrated sports watch category with their first-ever regular production non-precious-metal watch. Alongside the stainless steel case, the Odysseus represents an evolution of the brand’s Big Date design language — the large date sits on the right-hand side of the dial, balanced by a matching, plus-size day indicator on the left. In terms of visual impact, it’s a double whammy.

Richard Mille RM60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph “St. Barth”

To be fair, the date isn’t the only thing that’s big on this plus-sized powerhouse from Richard Mille. Ostensibly made with yachting in mind, this 50mm titanium-cased chronograph with a plus-sized compass bezel is a watch that’s hard to miss — so in this context, a big date display was really the only option. This watch is a great example of how size is relative. Maybe on this watch, it counts as a ‘regular’ date…

Richard Mille RM011-02 Flyback Chronograph

Another Richard Mille, this time in the more familiar tonneau shaped case, the RM011-02 Flyback Chronograph in titanium measures 44.5mm across — and as you can see, the date aperture looks decidedly larger in proportion when compared to the St. Barth. Richard Mille excels at the futuristic, almost extra-terrestrial aesthetic so if you’re looking for a big date with attitude to match, check out the RM011-02.

F.P. Journe Octa Sport ARS Titanium

F.P. Journe’s Octa Sport is a streamlined titanium number with an integrated bracelet, slender ceramic bezel, and a dial so bright is doesn’t even need luminous material (don’t worry, it has plenty). It’s also chock full of idiosyncratic complications, like a kidney bean-shaped day/night indicator, a power reserve display and, of course, the big date.

F.P. Journe Octa Quantieme Perpetual Calendar

This Octa Quantieme Perpetual Calendar offers a more traditional execution of the big date complication from F.P. Journe. This pretty perpetual calendar cased in platinum was a boutique-only offering, and the dramatically angular big date at six matches the twin day and date in the top section of the dial. Of course, this is a perpetual calendar, but Journe has cleverly kept the leap year indicator as discreet as possible, tucked in close to the central pinion. And matched with a blue leather strap, the blue dial is striking on the wrist.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Grande Date Ref. 5050-12B30-B52A

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms is, of course, a legend. Created in the early 1950s, this watch is in many ways responsible for establishing the blueprint for the modern dive watch. The addition of a ‘Grande Date’, as Blancpain calls it, might seem unusual, but the more you think about it, the more it makes sense. Dive watch design is all about legibility and clarity — so, viewed through this lens, a date that is easier to read is perfectly fitting for this titanium take on the iconic Fifty Fathoms.

Blancpain Aqualung Big Date Ref. 2850B-3630A-64B

While it might not be as famous as the Fifty Fathoms, the Leman Aqua Lung line is a design with a cult following. Offering sporty style in an understated package, the 40mm gold case with a standout double bezel offers a comfortable on-the-wrist experience. The big date is well integrated at the 6 o’clock position; at a quick glance, you could be forgiven for not noticing it at all. Perfect if you want to fly under the radar.

Breguet Marine Automatic Big Date Ref. 5817ST/Y2/5V8

Another watch that manages to subtly integrate its big date into the overall design of the dial is the Breguet Marine Automatic Big Date. This 39mm steel watch features a blue guilloché central dial with a contrasting silver chapter ring and applied blue Roman numerals. The blue on silver design of the big date blends seamlessly into the equation — the only tell being that the date uses Arabic numerals.

Chopard L.U.C. Lunar Big Date Ref. 161969-500

Chopard’s L.U.C collection has a reputation for being one of the best-kept secrets in watchmaking, featuring a classical design and movement quality that’s up there with the best of the best. This Lunar Big Date is no exception. While the eye is naturally drawn to the contemporary moon phase display, the big date is realized exceptionally well. This Chopard is a piece that is full of personality, from the handset to the micro-rotor calibre, it’s a true connoisseur’s choice.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph Ref. PFC906-1020001-400181

Parmigiani Fleurier is a Swiss brand that’s gathered some serious momentum in recent years, and the Tonda GT Chrono is one of the biggest reasons why. This modern sport chronograph has everything collectors want — sleek design, impeccable build quality, and (of course), a big date. The fact that Parmigiani Fleurier has applied the ‘panda-style’ design to the date display is a nice added touch.

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Ref. 03.4000.3652/21.1001

With nods to the iconic ‘rainbow’ chronographs of the 90s, the new Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph does a lot of things right. Not only does it pack an El Primero Swiss Made automatic movement into a comfortable and contemporary 42.5mm steel case with a horizontally striped black dial and a textured rubber strap, but it also manages to smartly integrate a big date complication into the dial without taking anything away from Zenith’s Pilot pedigree.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Day & Night GMT Ref. 240.8.72

Over the course of its long history, the Reverso has come in many forms. There are practically no complications out there that haven’t been integrated into the famous flipping case, and that includes the big date. What is uncommon about the integration of the date into this rectangular design is that it isn’t front and center. Instead, it sits out of the way at the top left of the dial, taking the place of the ’11’ marker. The 11th of the month is just that much more special for owners of this reference.

Glashutte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Ref. 1-36-13-02-81-70

Since its debut back in 2019, Glashütte Original’s line of dive watches, known as the SeaQ, has proven itself to be a plucky contender in the competitive luxury diver category. Not only is the fit and finish well executed, the model also offers the extra utility of a big date — or, in Glashütte Original’s poetic nomenclature, “Panorama” date.

Glashutte Original Seventies Panorama Chronograph Ref. 1-37-02-06-02-35

Another application of Glashütte Original’s “Panorama” date comes on the funktastic Seventies Panorama Chronograph Date with a turquoise dial. The uncommon ‘television’ shaped case paired with the incredibly vivid blue dial makes for an outstanding (and stand out) chronograph that doesn’t follow the pack.

Daniel Roth Datomax Big Date Ref. 208.1.40.011.CN

The appreciation for and excitement around Daniel Roth’s watchmaking has been trending significantly upward in recent years. After playing a significant role in the revitalization of Breguet in the 1970s and 80s, he created his eponymous brand in 1989. Looking at Roth’s own designs, like this 2005 Datomax Big Date, you can see the influences of both watch brands. With his own timepieces, Roth combined sculptural form and traditional technique to great effect. From the Roman numeral hour markers to the multiple different dial finishings, there is a lot to like here.

IWC Big Pilot Big Date Spitfire “Mission Accomplished” LE Ref. IW510506

What better watch to utilize a big date than the iconic IWC Big Pilot? The Big Pilot Big Date Spitfire “Mission Accomplished” is a 2021 limited edition with a 46mm bronze case and gorgeous green dial. Thanks to the sheer amount of real estate on the dial, it feels quite sparse, even with the big date at 12 and small seconds at 6. Be warned, though, it takes a big wrist (or a big personality) to pull it off.

Rotonde de Cartier Grand Date W1550751

For Cartier — the masters of non-round wristwatches — the Rotonde is seemingly one of their simplest offerings. It features a round, white gold, 42mm case with a silver dial (this one featuring Prive Collection guilloché), Roman numerals and the rest. In addition to these expected elements, the big date sits proudly at the top of the dial. With so much attention on Cartier’s contemporary and classical offerings at the moment, this subtle round watch is an interesting option.

As years-long waitlists and sky-high hype crash into a changing market filled with alternatives, it really begs the question: is the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona still worth chasing? While Rolex accessibility fatigue has worn some enthusiasts out, others remain as devout and committed as ever, always eager to bend the knee to the crown. But why is that exactly? What is it about such a simple watch that keeps hooking far more buyers than there are available watches? Let’s dig into it.

History

It would be foolish of me to run in circles, recounting the same story we’ve told a number of times before — most recently in our review of the Le Mans Daytona (found here). Yes, its origins date back to the ‘60s, with the legendary Zenith Daytona debuting in 1988. I will say that it’s a bit of a misnomer to dub it the Zenith Daytona, as Rolex modified the caliber so substantially that it’s hardly a Zenith once cased up. Between a drop in beat rate (the El Primero runs at five hertz and the Rolex variant steps down to four) and other in-house modifications including assembly, regulation, and so on, this is as much a Zenith Daytona as a Pagani Huayra is a Mercedes AMG Huayra. An unpopular opinion, perhaps, but something to keep in mind.

The first modern iteration powered by a fully in-house caliber arrived in 2000, with the caliber 4130, which remained in production through to 2023 with the arrival of the watch we see here today. The aesthetic changes between references are subtle, and changes to performance of the caliber are effectively non-existent, as you’ll see below.

Design Details

To be quite honest, you really need to look at the Daytona 126500LN directly beside the 116500LN to properly spot all of the differences. The most obvious perhaps, are the broadening of the ceramic bezel insert, and the slimming of its applied hour indices. The tracks for its subdials have also been thinned in a manner that suits the smaller indices. From there, a keen eye will note that its lugs and crown guards are a touch thicker, which in turn extend the pushers outwards, reaching closer towards the vertical line of its crown. This is all fussy detail work, but it yields what Rolex considers to be an even more refined design. The changes to the case profile feel a bit like a mild version of the Maxi case upgrade the Submariner went through some time ago, and those who loved the slender feel of the outgoing reference are more likely to notice the case profile adjustments. To those who’ve never experienced either, though, we’re talking about a level of fine tuning that is more reflected in the change in reference numbers than anything else.

Inner Workings

Alongside the cosmetic changes to its exterior, the new Daytona also received a technical update to its caliber. The arrival of the 4131 is in essence the same transformation we’ve been seeing across the Rolex model range with their 32xx caliber range. A change to its overall finishing — including Côte de Genève stripes across its mainplates, and a swanky new winding rotor — are a part of the package, though those are only visible on the special Le Mans version, as well as the platinum-cased references. At a technical level, the ball bearing setup of its winding rotor has been beefed up, and Rolex’s new Chronergy escapement has been fitted. Unlike its counterparts, its power reserve has not been increased, though the Daytona has had a 72-hour reserve since the introduction of the 4130 in 2000. Of course, the brand-standard -2/+2 accuracy promise is maintained for the new Daytona, just like all of Rolex’s creations.

Personality

It’s hard to really categorize the new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126500LN, or any other modern steel Daytona for that matter, as anything other than ubiquitous. That’s not meant as a slight in any way though! Is the Daytona iconic? Obviously yes, but it’s also the status watch that surfaces in more than its fair share of professional circles. Business owners, CEOs, executives, and otherwise well-heeled folks love the Daytona nearly as much as they love their ability to acquire watches of this ilk that remain inaccessible to anyone that doesn’t have a deep Rolex purchase history. That said, that’s far from the only reason that the Daytona is coveted. It’s the Rolex 24h of Daytona prize watch, it’s the famed Paul Newman, and it’s the chronograph that you can pick out of a crowd from fifty feet away. It hasn’t been to the moon, but it never really needed to. No matter what the market does, it will always be the “hero Rolex”, and there will always be more demand for it than there is supply.

Versus the Competition

Here’s where things get a bit interesting. Decades ago, for the type, style, and quality of watch, the steel Daytona didn’t really face a ton of competition. Those looking for a clean, crisp, and simple chronograph with a 3-6-9 subdial layout didn’t have many options. These days, however, with the expanse of in-house caliber manufacturers and broader market growth, it’s a very different story. Especially when you start looking at market value rather than retail pricing, you’ll notice the field starts to widen quickly.

Starting with the closest apples-to-apples aesthetically, the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Sport is, in essence, an affordable Daytona lookalike for less money. The El Primero caliber is a tough one to beat, and mating its design DNA with a ceramic tachymeter bezel insert ticks all of the boxes for those wanting that Daytona energy without bowing to the crown.

Stepping a bit out into left field in terms of design is the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph in green. Yes, it’s vastly different aesthetically, but the quality and legacy factor you get out of the AP is right in line with the Rolex. The finishing of its case and caliber surpass that of the Daytona, not to mention how stunning that guilloché dial looks in natural light. The fact that these two watches stand at around the same price on the secondary market is absolutely baffling.

Last but not least is an equally “hot ticket” watch with at least its share of common traits; the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph in steel can be had for new Daytona dollars as well. Aside from its date window, it delivers the same chrono subdial layout, screw-down pushers, and exceptionally crafted caliber, plus it has the ability to swap between the steel bracelet and its leather and rubber straps in a matter of seconds. Though they don’t have quite the same feel on the wrist, they’re definitely both worthy of consideration.

Final Thoughts

It’s challenging to not be a little hard on a watch that’s been at the top of the desirability food chain for as long as the Daytona has. Especially as someone who has a soft spot for indies and obscurity, examining the Daytona is like going back to a Whopper after years in small craft burger joints. That sounds harsher than it’s meant, but the reality is that the Whopper has been around forever, it’s consistent, and it delivers exactly what it’s been promising year after year. If I talk about my local burger joint when traveling halfway across the country no one will care, but everyone will know what I’m talking about when I say the words Burger King, and if I find one, I know exactly what I’m getting. There’s something to be said for legacy, after all.

See More of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126500LN

Visit Europeanwatch.com

As if starting a new business venture isn’t difficult enough, the watch industry takes history and legacy very seriously. Romanticized tales of daring entrepreneurs, creative engineers, and dedicated artisans are often responsible for winning the hearts, minds, and dollars of collectors. Without this heritage, it can be doubly hard to break into the market as a newcomer and establish a stable footing. When the quartz crisis hit in the 1970’s, many brands were unable to stay afloat amid increasing demand for inexpensive battery powered timepieces. Thankfully, this era didn’t last and mechanical watches once again rose in popularity. Many defunct brands were brought back to life by ambitious entrepreneurs looking to make their mark on their industry, and while not all were successful, Czapek & Cie is one of the lucky few who have been able to make a name for themselves in recent years. Cleverly balancing traditional workmanship with contemporary watchmaking, the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante “Ice Blue” is a contemporary horological marvel. 

History

Born in what is now the Czech Republic in 1811, Franciszek Czapek’s family moved to Poland while he was still a child. After participating in the November Uprising of 1830-1831 which saw young Polish army officers lead a revolt against the Russian Empire, Franciszek fled to Switzerland and Gallicized his name to François. In 1836, François met another Polish immigrant who had also fled the insurrection: Antoni Norbert Patek with whom he started Patek, Czapek & Cie a few short years later, in 1839. Patek left the partnership in 1845 but the brand continued to produce watches under the new name Czapek & Cie. 

Czapek went on to have great success in the watch industry, writing one of the first watch treatises in Polish and winning the favor of the French Imperial Court, even crafting timepieces for Napoleon himself. He expanded across the continent and opened boutiques in multiple European cities, including Geneva, Warsaw, and Paris. 

Around 1869 the company mysteriously changed hands, and shortly after, Czapek & Cie as the world had known it was dissolved, fading into relative obscurity for the next 100+ years.

Fast forward to 2011 when the watch enthusiast and marketing consultant Xavier de Roquemaurel, art expert Harry Guhl, and watchmaker Sébastian Follonier joined together to resurrect the defunct brand. The team developed new designs based on Czapek’s original pocket watches and enlisted the assistance of watch enthusiasts and entrepreneurs in an equity campaign to launch the brand.

In 2020, Czapek really made waves when they released their first dedicated sport watch, the Antarctique. The release of the model allowed the brand to showcase their SXH5 caliber, the first movement to be completely developed and produced in-house by the brand. Just one year later, in 2021, the brand unveiled the Antarctique Rattrapante Chronograph, adding a high-end complication to the Anarctique line. 

Design Details

At first glance, it can be easy to dismiss the Antarctique as yet another integrated bracelet sport watch. While many of the classic design cues are there, including a 70s-style, Genta-esque tonneau case, it also uniquely has crown guards and a chronograph pusher on the right side of the case and the pusher for the rattrapante mechanism on the left. While not directly symmetrical, this interesting placement helps balance some of the visual weight of the piece. The case is brushed, with a polished bezel and polished chamfered edges to the crown guards and pushers. The bracelet links alternate between brushed and polished surfaces, with the polished links resembling brackets and the brushed links filling the space in between. While many brands have had a difficult time designing unique and novel bracelets for their sport watches, Czpaek has solved that riddle. Overall, I quite like the design and surface finishing of the watch, as the large amount of brushed surfaces give an industrial feel to the watch, while the polished surfaces provide visual contrast and finesse . 

While the rattrapante is a traditional complication, the presentation here is not. The skeletonized dial puts all functions on full display and creates multiple mesmerizing layers of depth. At the center of the dial are blued hours, minutes, and chronograph seconds hands, with a red rattrapante hand. The outside of the dial has a 60-minute track printed in white on an “ice blue” sapphire flange with the “60” at twelve in red. 

As if the front of the watch was not enough of a party, the sapphire caseback puts the rest of the movement on full display. The plates and bridges have a matte finish with mirror-polished beveled edges.

Inner Workings

The SXH6 powering the Antarctique Rattrapante “Ice Blue” was developed for this watch in collaboration with Le Locle based movement manufacturer Chronode. The movement was designed to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing, as it is on full display no matter which side you look at! The structure and sub-dial placement was inspired by vintage Czapek pocket watches which often utilized vertical symmetry in their designs. Unlike many movements which are skeletonized after the fact, it is clear that the SXH6 was designed to be openworked from the start.

As already mentioned, the SXH6 is a split-second monopusher chronograph with automatic winding. The split-second chronograph is achieved using a module that utilizes two column wheels, one horizontal for chronograph operation, and a patent-pending clamp for the rattrapante. The SXH6 has a 60-hour power reserve, operates at 28,800 bph, and consists of 292 components including 49 jewels. 

Personality

Given the brand’s history, it makes perfect sense that the Antarctique Rattrapante “Ice Blue” was designed with enthusiasts in mind. With its unique design, complication, and execution, this Czapek features all of the elements that will appeal to the most dyed-in-the-wool and experienced collectors. While still a very premium piece, the original MSRP (and the price on the secondary market) is actually very reasonable given the price of similar offerings from other haute-horology maisons. The Antarctique Rattrapante offers an incredible amount of value no matter how you look at it and an equally impressive amount of quality given how young the brand really is. 

Versus the Competition

In a short amount of time, Czapek’s stature has risen dramatically and the brand has created a host of unique offerings that rival some of the most well known names in watchmaking at a price that seems like a steal in comparison. Due to the unique nature of the Antarctique Rattrapante, direct comparisons are few and far between, but here are a few alternatives that we recommend considering if you are cross-shopping the Czapek.

IWC’s GST series has been an fan favorite for years now with its integrated bracelet design, rugged durability, and unique and practical complications. The IWC GST Split-Second Chronograph is powered by a modified Valjoux 7750 and while this line has long been discontinued, the 43mm steel case and integrated bracelet remain extremely relevant. Often available for under $7,000, these are an extremely economical way to add a stainless steel split-second chronograph to your collection. 

Featuring an open worked movement and a more traditional form, the Chronoswiss Opus Vita may be more to the taste of certain collectors. Measuring 38mm with a more traditional case and lug design, conventional bracelets and straps are an option. Examples can be found with the original stainless steel bracelet or on a variety of straps. There are also a few rattrapante variants out there as well, both with and without the skeletonized dial. 

The Zenith Defy Extreme in Titanium and Rose Gold is a show stopper of a chronograph. While the bold case design and size are polarizing, the 1/100th of a second chronograph is mesmerizing to observe, especially against the open worked dial. With this version of the El Primero movement, Zenith engineered a watch that allows the chronograph seconds hand to complete a rotation around the dial once every second, allowing for measurements down to 1/100th of a second. While it’s not the most practical of pieces, it is fun to watch it in action. Should that not be enough for you, Zenith has also released a version featuring two tourbillons!

If you prefer your skeletonized, integrated bracelet sport watches time-only and without complications, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton has a beautifully open-worked movement with rose gold hands, indices, and a 22k rose gold rotor. While the bracelet and case are made from stainless steel, the fluted bezel is made of platinum, adding an extra premium touch to an already elegantly luxurious watch.

Final Thoughts

Beautifully finished, uniquely designed, and innovative in execution, it is hard to find fault with Czapek’s Anarctique Rattrapante “Ice Blue”. Lucky owners will be receiving a lot of watch for their money and immediate entry into the watch world’s “If You Know, You Know” club. Even if it might not be for everyone, there is something noble about seeking out less well-known manufacturers and supporting brands with singular visions. Czapek deserves all of the accolades and attention that they receive and we applaud their boldness in forging a new path in this historic industry.

See More of the Czapek Anartique Chronograph Rattrapante Ice Blue

Visit Europeanwatch.com

It seems like every brand these days is rushing to release their own take on a stainless steel sport watch. And not every brand has been successful. Many have released watches that are simple retreads (bordering on knock-offs) of the icons like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, but thankfully some brands have gotten it right. With this in mind, we decided to take a look at 15 of our favorite stainless steel sport watches, ranging from the iconic to the obscure. Let’s go!

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711

When it comes to stainless steel luxury sport watches with integrated bracelets, perhaps no watch is more famous (or more in demand) than the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711. In a twist that shocked pretty much everyone back in 2021, after the hype of the short-lived green 5711 and the ultra-exclusive Tiffany Blue 5711, Patek discontinued the steel 5711 altogether. The follow-up model, the 5811, is offered only in white gold, making it (understandably) a bit more expensive. We still love the Nautilus in its original steel variation though. This Gerald Genta design is one the best stainless steel sport watches ever made. End of story.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 16202

4 years before the Nautilus made its debut, another iconic Gerald Genta stainless steel timepiece was unveiled: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The story goes that Genta was asked to design a watch in a single night, and the Royal Oak was what he came up with. We’re not sure how accurate this is, but it definitely makes for a fun party story! Whether designing the Royal Oak took a month or a single night, 50 years later it remains one of the most iconic timepieces in the world. From the unique bracelet, to the octagonal bezel with exposed screw heads, to the Grand Tapisserie dial, the Royal Oak is often imitated but has never been duplicated. When you think of a stainless steel sport watch, you think of the Royal Oak.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato

When people first see the Laureato, they immediately draw comparisons to the Royal Oak. And while there are some similarities (specifically in the case design), many don’t realize that the Laureato boasts quite the heritage of its own. First released in 1975, the Laureato came after the Royal Oak but before the Nautilus. Clearly, the 1970s was an important period for the development of stainless steel sport watches. Since its introduction, GP has continued to expand the Laureato line, adding different complications and dial colors, and even producing it in different materials, including forged carbon. If you want a stainless steel sport watch with heritage (and that is actually available to buy…), the Laureato is for you.

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner

Believe it or not, not all steel sport watches date back to the 70s. In recent years, there have actually been a number of new players offering their take on the category and one of our favorites comes from independent brand H. Moser & Cie. The Streamliner is just incredibly unique. From its cushion case to its armadillo-like single link bracelet, there is nothing else like it on the market. If you want a steel sport watch with retro-futuristic design language, this is a great piece.

Chopard Alpine Eagle

While the Chopard Alpine Eagle is clearly a modern watch, it was actually inspired by a previous model from the brand’s catalog, the St. Moritz. The St. Moritz was released in 1980 and its design was absolutely a product of that era. The new Alpine Eagle is a definite improvement. It has a much better case to bracelet ratio, a more interesting bracelet design, and a dial (inspired by the iris of an eagle’s eye) that brings the watch to the next level.

A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus

When most people think of A. Lange & Sohne, they probably don’t think of a stainless steel sports watch. But in 2019, the venerable German brand entered the crowded category with the launch of the Odysseus. The watch is still very “German” and Lange in its design, while also offering something a little bit sportier. Unlike other sport watches though, when you turn the Odysseus over, you are greeted with a view of Lange’s beautifully finished movement. It almost makes you want to wear the watch with the caseback facing out!

Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust just might be the most classic steel sport watch that you can buy. It also just so happens to often be the entrance point for many collectors into the brand. With the Datejust, you get a dizzying amount of options. Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, smooth or fluted bezel, multiple sizes, and dozens of different dial options. If you are looking for a sport watch that can be dressed up or down, the Datejust is a great option.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Many collectors assume that, in addition to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas is a Gerald Genta creation. The Overseas, however, was not designed by Genta and was released two decades after the Nautilus, in 1996. The fact that the Overseas is so often associated with the Royal Oak, Nautilus and Genta just showcases how highly respected the collection has become. From its Maltese cross bezel to the unique bracelet, the Overseas shows us that its still possible to create a unique and modern steel sport watch that isn’t just another retread.

IWC Ingenieur

No, Gerald Genta didn’t originally design the Ingenieur in 1955, but his redesign in 1974 paved the way for the future of the collection. With hints of the Royal Oak bezel and Nautilus bracelet, the Ingenieur is the perfect companion piece to the two other Genta giants. And with the re-release of the Ingenieur in 2023, the brand fixed some of the issues collectors had with the original model. The bezel screws are now aligned more symmetrically and the case has been slimmed down and streamlined. Because of this and the new teal colored dial, the Ingenieur has become one of our favorite steel sport watches on the market.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo

Making its debut in 2014, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection has become a favorite with collectors. Featuring a square case that is 40mm in diameter the watch doesn’t wear small, but while it may be wide, it is also incredibly thin. Some of the thinnest mechanical watches to ever be made are Octo Finissimos, and the standard production models clock in at just over 5mm. The steel Octo Finissimo is just 6.4mm thick, making it the perfect watch to hide under your cuff.

Cartier Santos

The Santos began as a pilot watch, having been designed by Louis Cartier for friend and aeronaut Alberto Santos-Dumont. Since then, the watch has gone through many redesigns and iterations and has become a mainstay and icon in the Cartier catalog. The square case and dial and Roman numeral indexes give the watch a traditional look, but don’t worry, the bracelet and bezel are sporty enough to make this a versatile, everyday wear.

Laurent Ferrier Tourbillon Grand Sport Ref. LCF041

Laurent Ferrier (the brand) was founded fairly recently, in 2009, but that hasn’t stopped it from making some exceptional pieces, including the Tourbillon Grand Sport. When you first look at this stainless steel watch, you immediately notice the blue dial, cushion case, and all around sporty design. But turn the watch over and you will see beautiful finishing and a manually wound double spiral tourbillon. If you want a sporty steel watch that is the epitome of “stealth wealth”, check out the Laurent Ferrier Tourbillon Grand Sport.

Czapek Antarctique

Czapek & Cie was originally founded all the way back in 1845, but the modern iteration of the brand wasn’t relaunched until 2011.Since then, Czapek has become a hit among indie collectors and the Antartique is a testament to what the brand is capable of. One of the hallmarks of a great steel sport watch is a unique bracelet and the Antartique’s is one of the most unique out there. The brushed single links are attached by a polished connector, offering a nice contrast that shines on the wrist. The Antarctique’s dial is also incredibly unique, offering different levels and depth for incredible visual interest. If you want something in the vein of the Royal Oak, just a little more obscure, the Antarctique is a great option.

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 “White Birch” Ref. SLGH005

When you think of Grand Seiko, you either think of the finishing and polishing on the case or the intricate dial patterns. The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 “White Birch” features both. The star of this show, though, is clearly the “White Birch” dial. In order to achieve the unique effect, the dial is stamped not once, but 7 times! The result is one of the most beautiful dials you will find on a steel sport watch anywhere.

Piaget Polo

Dating from 1979, the Piaget Polo was one of the last steel sport watches released in the decade that produced some of the most iconic pieces still in production today. The modern variation of the Polo is incredibly unique with a round case, but dial that is a square cushion giving the watch an almost bulbous look. If you want a 70s era watch in a modern package, the Polo might be the choice.

In the wild world of independent watchmaking, Kari Voutilainen stands at the top alongside a select few who are capable of being considered equals. Similarly, in the land of elegant top-shelf indie dress watches, few can rival the Retrograde Date 217QRS, let alone a unique piece in steel. As luck would have it, the piece seen here is precisely that — one of a set of just eight watches, each with a completely unique dial, produced to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Manfredi Jewels in 2020. It’s hard to believe, but even more buzz has built around Kari and his work in the last few years, what with the growing reach of his dial manufacture Comblemine SA which now produces dials for many other highly desirable wristwatches, and his recent acquisition of the legendary sleeper brand Urban Jurgensen. With all of these factors in mind, having the opportunity to handle a piece as rare and special as the one we have in front of us today is quite the treat.

History

When Kari Voutilainen first launched the Retrograde Date 217QRS in 2018, its design was fairly surprising. The market was due for something new, and though the addition of a date complication to his existing Vingt-8 manually-wound caliber was far from revolutionary, its execution was still plenty noteworthy. In the gap between the launch and arrival of this Manfredi anniversary piece, a small number of 217QRS variants rolled out of the manufacture, primarily cased in white gold, yellow gold, and platinum. Manfredi owner and founder Roberto Chiappelloni, who has known Kari since his days working in the restoration department of Parmigiani Fleurier, was eager to connect with him for a special anniversary edition, leading to the unique set of eight pieces that includes this stunner right here.

Where things get especially interesting with this “set” of watches is that it’s not really a set or edition, technically. Yes, they made eight Retrograde Date 217QRS for Manfredi, and they were all cased in steel, but beyond that, it was more of a waitlist slot, allowing each individual to customize their order however they wished. In this particular case, with an elegant starry sky, in others, with traditional guilloche and distinctive numerals. This is why this watch lands in the piece unique category, despite technically being part of an edition.

Design Details

We could easily write an entire essay on Kari Voutilainen’s masterful casework here — between the elegant teardrop lugs, mirror polishing, and a hundred other little details. We could also spend more time repeating what’s been said over and over again about Kari’s beloved multi-piece hands. If you’re looking for that deeper dive, David Klint covered it in a review of the Vingt-8 Salmon dial that passed through EWC previously. What we need to talk about more than anything is the incredible amount of handwork that went into this dial.

The dial on this piece is an absolute masterclass in artful handcraft. The dial plate was engraved first to create the raised surface of the moon, stars, Saturn, and other celestial forms. From there, wonderfully subtle hand painting is applied to pull even more depth out of the details. You’ll also note some intentional work done to give the dial a bit of age, with light browns painted on parts of the minute and date tracks. Kari’s work always has a bit of a vintage feel to it, if only on account of his traditionalist methods, however this piece pushes things just a touch further.

Inner Workings

Built from a base of the existing Vight-8 caliber — the 217QRS features German Silver bridges, a free sprung balance with Breguet/Grossmann balance spiral, and rose gold timing weights bopping along at a leisurely 18,000 vph. The big differentiator with the Retrograde Date 217QRS is really only visible functionally — something we’re not too upset by given how fantastic the finishing of the Vingt-8 base is.

A retrograde date function, or really any retrograde function, is something we’ve all seen before. The hand reaches the end of its track, then snaps back to the start, right? Not here. The date hand on the 217QRS embarks on a leisurely journey backwards, taking a few seconds to get there. Kari built the date in this manner to avoid the bouncing or inaccurate return (landing on “2” instead of “1”) that can happen with instantaneous retrograde mechanisms.

Personality

Buying a Kari Voutilainen of any variety speaks to a deep appreciation of craft and tradition, as well as a willingness to support makers that live outside the big-box, high-volume sector of the market. With a piece like this — a watch specially commissioned by a collector with said loves and appreciations — I hate to type the overused trope of grail, but I’m not sure there is a term more fitting than that. A piece unique from Kari is about as coveted as it gets, and the kind of watch we hope will land in the hands (and on the wrist) of a collector who will wear and enjoy it for decades to come.

Versus the Competition

This is tough territory, to say the least. Obviously the list of brands that can compete is small to begin with, and adding the exclusivity factor of this one slims things down even further. We were tempted to stick to other piece unique options, but that’s not entirely fair. It’s an emotional watch, with art and craft in its essence, so we broadened the field a bit. 

F.P. Journe is fairly and safely the first place to start when looking for things to compete with the Retrograde Date 217QRS, as much for the brand’s overall aesthetic as for its impressive movement design and finishing. Opting for something more classical — Journe doesn’t really do “whimsy” — while keeping an eye on rarity and value, the T30 Tourbillon was an obvious choice. It’s an impressive manually-wound caliber out back, with a properly traditional dial and hand set out front, designed to mimic the aesthetic of Journe’s original 1983 pocket watch.

If the T30 is perhaps a touch too traditional, the next option would be the Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS Ten Piece Unique — a watch filled with a mix of purist traditional watchmaking, and modern manufacturing and movement design. Similar to Kari, anything from Romain Gauthier can be considered quite scarce, as he produces fewer than 100 pieces a year under his own name (while also spending time manufacturing complex components for other makers).

Lastly, the Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire Constant Force with a dial by Kari Voutilainen can comparatively be considered a “value offering”. Tim and Bart Grönefeld build some of the most stunning movements available on the market today (entirely from stainless steel), and when paired with a dial from Kari’s own manufacture, you’ve got a winning combination that joins two of the indie scene’s best into a single watch.

Final Thoughts

What can be said that hasn’t been said already? This is one of those rare times where a watch does all of the talking for us — to even imagine, something as special as a one-of-one steel cased watch from Kari Voutilainen, with such a unique and beautifully executed dial just rolling through our doors in the first place. We’ve seen some special watches over the years, of course, but when it comes to Kari’s offerings, this is about as good as it gets, and it won’t last long either!

Much of the digital ink spilt for Patek Philippe these days focuses on the brand’s sportier offerings, the highly coveted Nautilus and Aquanaut models, as well as their mid-tier complications including perpetual calendars, rattrapantes and the like. This makes sense, as for many, it is where their dreams, aspirations and account balances lie. But it’s important to remember that Patek Philippe enjoys its reputation for a reason, and every so often, the maker creates something absolutely extraordinary. Case in point, the Reference 6301P, a grand complication ode to the chiming watch that incorporates a grande sonnerie, a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater. Not only does this combination of complications represent the zenith of the watchmaker’s art, but every single aspect of this timepiece is created to the absolute highest standard. Make no mistake, this is a very grown-up watch.

History

Patek Philippe’s history in chiming watches dates all the way back to 1839, and in the generations since, the sound of the manufacture’s watches have continued to ring out through the years. In the modern era, the 1989 caliber R27 is a pivotal moment which not only celebrated the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe, but also was the first grand complication crafted entirely in house. In the subsequent decades, Patek Philippe has created numerous works of exceptional complication, like the Star Calibre that ushered in the millennium and, more recently, the Grandmaster Chime announced in 2014.

It’s an impressive list to be a part of, but the Reference 6301P, and the GS 36-750 PS IRM movement that powers it, very much deserves to be included. While the brand has a long history of Grande Sonnerie watches, this is only the second wristwatch version after the Grandmaster Chime.

Design Details

The overall look and feel of the 6301P is one of a skillful balancing act. On the one hand, this watch is an exemplar of Patek’s long legacy of legendary grande sonnerie watches, which it has been creating for over 100 years (albeit infrequently). As such, Patek Philippe bears a great weight and responsibility not just to honor this past but also to continually evolve it, updating the aesthetic of this ultra-complicated genre in a sensitive and considered fashion. So it is that the black enamel dial — crafted by leading enamel artist Anita Porchet — is reserved and traditional with a glazed finish and white gold applied Breguet numerals.

While the dial embodies the traditions of Patek Philippe, with its Breguet numerals and glossy black enamel; the 44.8mm wide and 12mm tall platinum case is quite contemporary in execution. The case band is recessed, and the bezel is concave, which in addition to reducing the perceived height of the watch, manages to perfectly encapsulate a contemporary take on the classical form. Functionally, the watch is deceptively simple, lacking the distinctive protruding left-hand slide so common in chiming watches. There’s a function selector discreetly nestled between the lower lugs that allows you to switch between grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie and silent mode and between the lugs at 12 is a single diamond, Patek Philippe’s traditional signature for platinum cases.

Inner Workings

Naturally, the heart and soul of the Ref. 6301P is the highly complicated movement. Unsurprisingly, given how much time it takes to bring this sort of grand complication to market, the calibre is based on the Grandmaster Chime’s movement. While that particular watch does it all, here the focus is purely on the chime. To cover the basics, the GS 36-750 PS IRM is a manually wound movement constructed using 703 components that measures 37mm across and 7.5mm thick. It holds 72-hours of power reserve for the movement and 24-hours for the chimes. There’s a Gyromax balance and a silicon mainspring, all backed up with the Patek Philippe seal. As for the complications, in addition to the grande and petite sonneries, there’s a minute repeater as well as dial-side power reserve indicators for both the movement and the striking mechanism all capped off with a hacking seconds complication.

What this spec list doesn’t adequately capture is how downright impressive this movement is. The grande sonnerie alone is a remarkable complication, which allows the watch to continually chime the time in hours and quarters. Of course, Patek Philippe had to go above and beyond, opting to create the more complex version of the function, by utilizing a carillon. This means that the movement chimes the sound on three gongs rather than the standard two, with the hours and quarters in grande sonnerie, and the hours in petite sonnerie.

As far as finishing goes, this movement is just as spectacular as you might expect. There are Geneva stripes and anglage everywhere you look and smooth mirror polishing on the three hammers. For a watch of this caliber, it does not disappoint.

Versus the Competition

When you start putting the word ‘grand’ in front of complication, you’re entering a rarefied space in horology, and there aren’t many players who have what it takes to make a watch at this level.

The ambitiously named Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie is in the same league as Patek Philippe, as AP has significant expertise in the area of chiming watches. In fact, they patented the Supersonnerie technology, debuting it in 2015 in a Royal Oak Concept. The use of the Code 11.59 case is well suited to the complication, lending a contemporary flavor. If you wanted something even sportier though, this Piece Unique Royal Oak Grande Complication “Pride of Argnetina” is something you don’t see every day.

Another contemporary take on the chiming watch is A. Lange & Sohne’s Zeitwerk Decimal Strike, seen here in a limited edition Honey Gold. While this piece lacks the complexity of the 6301P, it does feature the innovative decimal hour chiming mechanism, and gongs visible from the dial side of the watch.

Finally, there’s one watch from an unexpected maker that could be considered as well — the Carillon Tourbillon from Biver Watches. Founded by industry legend Jean-Claude Biver, this modern twist on a carillon minute repeater (again far less complex than the Patek) also features a tourbillon to boot. While Biver offers novelty with his complication, Patek Philippe offers centuries of tradition.

Personality

Typically, it’s easy to pigeon-hole Patek Philippe personality-wise as the brand is the poster child of buttoned-up conservatism. On the one hand, this is a very traditional watch, especially when compared to the options listed above. Platinum, black enamel, and Breguet numerals are an old-school combination, yet somehow this Patek Philippe still manages to feels relevant and contemporary. Perhaps it’s the subtle evolution of the case, or maybe it’s the simple fact that quality trumps all, but this watch defies conventional expectations and stands squarely on its own.

Final Thoughts 

It’s easy to go overboard with superlatives when talking about this sort of watch — a piece so complicated, well-crafted, and rare that it would be the belle of every ball it attended. But there’s one charming fact that really sums up what makes the Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 6301P stand out, and that is the fact that this watch (and all Patek Philippe minute repeaters for that matter) is personally auditioned by Mr. Thierry Stern himself before leaving the factory to ensure it meets the maker’s rigorous standards. That’s some serious old-world charm right there.