We all love and appreciate the iconic designs that have come to dominate the collecting world over the years. Timepieces like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, and Rolex Daytona are classics that will never go out of style. That being said, we also love and appreciate watchmakers who are producing bold, innovative, industry-defying designs. With that in mind, we thought we would take a look at 10 of the most unique (some might even say crazy) watches that have come through the doors of European Watch Company.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel
Price: $80,000-$90,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold.
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 burst onto the scene in 2019 to less than enthusiastic reviews, but the collection has slowly grown in appreciation and popularity since. Some might even argue that the it is the Code 11.59 , not the Royal Oak, has become the platform for experimentation at Audemars Piguet. Case in point – the Code 11.59 Starwheel. Based on the original Ref. 25720BA Starwheel from 1991, this variation takes a more modern and visually interesting approach. In addition to the mesmerizing rotating hour discs and retrograde minutes scale, the outer portion of the dial has a beautiful, out of this world aventurine pattern. If you want an AP that will surely be a conversation starter, the Code 11.59 Starwheel is definitely a great choice.
Our review of the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Starwheel is available here.
Konstantin Chaykin Joker
Price: N.A., Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium.
Independent watch brands are often willing to take more chances than other brands, and perhaps no independent brand is more representative of that daredevil ethos than Konstantin Chaykin. Founded in Russia in 2003 by Konstantin Chaykin, the brand produces a very limited number of hand-crafted watches each year (around 200-250 pieces). Perhaps the most well-known, and most daring, of Chaykin’s designs, is the Joker. The Joker resembles, you guessed it, the joker of Batman lore. The whole dial is a face with two googly eyes making up the hours and minutes subdials with each pupil pointing to the corresponding hour or minute. There is also a large tongue at 6 o’clock that functions as a moon phase and adds to the silliness (or villainy?) of the watch. The watch doesn’t take itself too seriously, but there clearly is some serious watchmaking behind it. If you don’t need something that is Swiss, this limited edition piece is for the collector that really is looking for something different.
Check out our full review of the Konstantin Chaykin Joker.
MB&F HM10 Bulldog
Price: $85,000-$100,000, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 24mm, Lug-to-Lug: 54mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium.
You really can’t have a list of crazy watches and not include an MB&F, particularly a watch from the brand’s Horological Machine collection. As opposed to the Legacy Machine line, MB&F’s Horological Machines are more playful, art-focused pieces and the HM10 Bulldog is about as playful as you can get. As the name suggests, the whole watch is meant to look like a Bulldog, with the articulating lugs representing the dog’s legs and the front-facing power reserve the dog’s mouth (when the mouth is open the watch has a full reserve and it closes as the reserve is depleted). While this watch looks like no other MB&F (or any other watch period!), the brand’s hallmarks still remain. Most notably the flying balance wheel, which is visible when looking at the watch from above, successfully ties the HM10 Bulldog to the rest of MB&F’s catalog. One among many interesting designs from MB&F, check out the whole Horological Machine collection to see an array of unique watches.
Our review of the MB&F HM10 Bulldog is available here.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual
Price: $175,000-$185,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 17.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 24mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold.
Some may say that the Legacy Machine is MB&F’s more restrained and conventional collection, however, conventional for MB&F is not conventional for most other brands! The dial of the Legacy Machine Perpetual is completely openworked, displaying the dizzying array of the watch’s mechanics just under the high-domed crystal and perpetual calendar complication. And on top of everything? You guessed it, MB&F’s signature flying balance wheel. While there is clearly a lot going on dial side, we don’t think it is too overwhelming. And who doesn’t like to see all the inner workings of their luxury timepiece on display while on the wrist?
Check out our review of the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual here.
Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down
Price: $120,000-$130,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum.
Upon first glance, you might think this Ludovic Ballouard is just a strange watch with upside down hour numerals. And yes it is that. But lurking underneath the seemingly simple exterior is some seriously complicated watchmaking. Once you learn how the watch works, there is a true “a-ha” moment and you quickly appreciate the watch all the more. The single large hand on the main dial is the minute hand. So how do you tell the hours? Well, the upside down hour marker flips to right-side up during that hour. This presents an easy and seriously innovative way to tell time that we’ve never seen before. It’s pretty clear why the Upside Down has become so coveted in collectors’ circles.
A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” Ref. 405.034
Price: $225,000-$235,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum.
One doesn’t typically associate crazy design choices with a brand like A. Lange & Sohne. Yet, watches like the Zeitwerk and the Lange 1 are actually pretty unique and iconic in their own right. It’s the Lumen series that really catches our eye as the most daring pieces in Lange’s collection, though, and the Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” Ref. 405.034 is among our favorites. On the Lumen, the typical Datograph design aesthetic gets the transparent treatment through the use of a smoked sapphire dial. This allows you not only to see some of the inner workings of the watch, but also the luminous date numbers even when they aren’t in the date window. Additionally, the outer edge of the dial and both chronograph subdials are also fully lumed, offering a treat when you look at this watch in the dark.
Our review of the A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” Ref. 405.034 is available here.
F.P. Journe Vagabondage III
Price: $355,000-$365,000, Case Size: 37.6mm, Thickness: 7.84mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum.
F.P. Journe has its own distinct design ethos and has created more than their fair share of unique models over the years. When Journe does something really crazy, like they did with the Vagabondage III, people pay attention. The Vagabondage III is unlike anything else from Journe (except maybe the Vagabondage I and II…) and has not only a jumping hour complication, but it is the first watch ever to employ a jumping seconds complication. It truly is a sight to behold in person.
Vianney Halter Antiqua
Price: $350,000-$360,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Platinum.
Vianney Halter might not be as much of a household name as F.P. Journe, but we would argue that he should be. Since the 1990s, Halter has been creating mechanical marvels under his eponymous brand with recent releases like the the Deep Space Tourbillon and Deep Space Resonance, showcasing the brand’s staying power. The earlier pieces, like the steampunk Antiqua shown here, paved the way. The Antiqua is an easy to read perpetual calendar with complications that Halter isolated into four completely separate dials. And while the funky, asymmetrical shape of the case makes it look like it will wear large, it fits perfectly wearable even on those with modest-sized wrists.
Make sure to check out our review of the Vianney Halter Antique.
Cartier Crash
Price: $265,000-$275,000, Case Size: 22.5mm, Thickness: 8.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 38.5mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Yellow Gold.
There is an urban legend that the Cartier Crash was born out of a Baignoire Allongée that was involved in car crash. Unfortunately this is just a legend, but that doesn’t make us appreciate the Dali-esque, surreal design of the Crash any less. The watch looks like its melting on your wrist and is an understated presence that commands respect unlike anything else in the watch world. Maybe that’s why the watch is having such a moment in the current cultural zeitgeist.
You can read our full review of the Cartier Crash here.
Zenith Defy Zero G
Price: $134,800, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 15.2mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Rose Gold.
The biggest criticism of a tourbillon is the fact that many argue it is useless in a modern day wristwatch. Meant to counteract the effects of gravity on a pocket watch (while in a stationary position), this complication was no longer necessary once watches migrated from the pocket to the constantly-moving wrist. Zenith took this to heart and created the Defy Zero G. The watch boasts a tourbillon-esque gyroscopic “Gravity Control” regulating organ module that was meant to counteract the effects of gravity no matter the position the watch is in. Is it necessary? Probably not. Does it look cool? It most definitely does. It’s always nice to see brands pushing the envelope and trying to evolve complications into something a little bit more useful!