Audemars Piguet is often thought of as a one watch brand, but AP existed long before the Royal Oak came along and their back catalog is full of some incredibly interesting and unusual designs. The recent introduction of the Code 11.59 model line has proven that AP still knows how to create something different when they put their mind to it. And with the Ref. 15212NB.OO.A002KB.01 Code 11.59 Starwheel, AP has flexed its haute horology muscle and given collectors something that they have been clamoring for.
History
While the Code 11.59 is a relatively new collection (first released in 2019), the Starwheel has a much deeper history. The intricate complication of wandering hour discs and retrograde minutes was actually created in the 17th century (for a Pope of all people!) and Audemars Piguet’s first interpretation hit the market in 1991.
The original Audemars Piguet Starwheel was a lot more traditional in its design (beyond the obscure complication, of course). The original model from 1991 sported a slender 36mm case in either yellow or rose gold and a guilloche outer dial with transparent sapphire wandering hour discs. For such an avant-garde watch packed with a haute horological complication, it was actually rather subdued and understated.
The original Starwheel occupied a somewhat obscure position in Audemars Piguet’s catalog and was produced in small numbers up until 2000 with a number of different dial variations, metals, and even a few with gem-set bezels sold to collectors.
Design Details
In 2022, Audemars Piguet brought the Starwheel back as part of the recently launched Code 11.59 model line. Many have speculated that Audemars Piguet would use the Code 11.59 as a platform for innovation and experimentation and clearly the Starwheel represents a first attempt. First impressions are: WOW. AP really hit it out of the park with this piece.
While AP’s original Starwheel had a much more classic and restrained look, the Code 11.59 version takes a much more modern approach. Instead of clear sapphire wandering hour discs, the Code 11.59 Starwheel uses sleek black opaline aluminum discs. Instead of a guilloched outer dial, you get deep blue sparkling aventurine. This new interpretation is sized up quite a bit as well, at 41mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick vs. the original at 36mm and 9mm. The three piece, white gold case with its black ceramic midcase, brings the watch together in a way that, I think, improves greatly upon the original. The original clearly paid tribute to the 17th century night clock commissioned by Pope Alexander XII, but with the Code 11.59 version, AP has chosen to look to the future instead of the past.
Inner Workings
The Code 11.59 Starwheel runs on the Audemars Piguet’s in-house caliber 4310, which itself is based on the caliber 4309. To achieve the wandering hour complication, AP added a module to their time-only caliber 4309. While the watch features both wandering hours and retrograde minutes complications, the seconds hand is a standard seconds hand. This doesn’t take away from the design, though AP’s original Starwheel did not have a seconds hand.
Personality
As I’ve already mentioned, this variation of the Starwheel is much more modern and eye-catching and really is a statement piece on your wrist. In addition to being more modern, it is also a bit more sporty. I mean, the watch comes on a nylon strap! This is a piece that feels just as at home in the boardroom as it does in a cafe.
Overall, the Starwheel is a great expansion of the Code 11.59 collection. It is actually pretty rare for a brand to improve upon an original watch so dramatically (case in point, the best Royal Oak is still the original, uncomplicated ultra-thin), but occasionally a brand will take something good and make it great. IWC recently did so with the Ingenieur line and AP has definitely done so with the Code 11.59 Starwheel
Versus the Competition
If you like the wandering hours and retrograde minutes complication of the Code 11.59 Starwheel, but it is just too traditional for you, consider the Urwerk UR-202 AlTiN. The UR-202 features a similar complication, but in Urwerk’s iconic and ultra-modern UFO-esque case design. While the Code 11.59 Starwheel is modern and sporty, the UR-202 AITiN brings this to completely new level. This piece, or really any Urwerk for that matter, is a statement on your wrist.
You like the Code 11.59 and the Starwheel’s aventurine dial, but want a more traditional complication in your watch? The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar with aventurine dial is a great choice. Just as much a conversation starter as the Starwheel, the Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar features a similar 41mm white gold case, aventurine dial, and of course, a perpetual calendar complication.
Final Thoughts
Complications do not have to be functional for collectors to enjoy them. The wandering hours and retrograde minutes of the Code 11.59 Starwheel don’t add any functionality to the watch, but that’s not why we love it. Seeing the rotating discs and blue aventurine dial adds a little bit of fun and uniqueness to a hobby that often sees the same piece created over and over again by different brands (and sometimes by the same brand…). AP itself has been accused of this with the Royal Oak, but with the Code 11.59 Starwheel, the brand has shown that they can create something different, even while reaching back into their archives. Well done!
See more of the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Starwheel Ref. 15212NB.OO.A002KB.01
