While unique dial finishings and exotic materials are not complications per se, they can completely change a watch’s aesthetic. Guilloche, enamel, and even meteorite can take a fairly standard watch and turn it into something special. In that vein, when used on a watch’s dial, mother of pearl adds a beautiful, shimmering effect that is unlike anything else. With so many different colors and textures visible in the natural material, watches with mother of pearl look different and take on a different appearance depending on the light and the angle from which you’re viewing it. In order to add some color to your watch collection, take a look at 9 of our favorite mother of pearl watches.
F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Black Mother of Pearl Limited Edition
Price: $290,000-$300,000, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 10.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.9mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Platinum.
Mother of pearl dials can sometimes come across as fussy or dated, but when F.P. Journe uses the material in their designs, that definitely not the case. Case in point: the limited edition Octa Calendrier with a Black Mother of Pearl dial. Beyond the insanely stunning dial, the watch also features an annual calendar, complete with a retrograde date display. That being said, the black mother of pearl dial really steals the show here! It isn’t actually black, but the mother of pearl is quite dark, with a mix of blues, grays, purples, greens and even some pink. Colorful and iridescent, this is an incredibly rare and unique piece that will definitely get some looks the next time you strap it to your wrist!
F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain Nacre
Price: $115,000-$125,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum.
Journe does such a great job with mother of pearl dials, we had to include a second. The Chronometre Souverain Nacre is something completely different from the Octa Calendrier featured above. The center of the dial, which features the time display, small seconds subdial and the power reserve display, is finished in a silver guilloche. However, the outer portion of the dial, with the blue painted hour markers and minute track, is fashioned from blue mother of pearl. If you don’t look carefully, you might not even notice the mother of pearl. If you are looking for a more under the radar offering that features a subtle touch of mother of pearl, the Chronometre Souverain Nacre in platinum is a great choice.
Gerald Genta Mickey Mouse Mother of Pearl Dial G3487.7
Price: $9,000-$9,500, Case Size: 36mm, Thickness: 8.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 36mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel.
Gerald Genta watches are known for a few things: retrograde complications, Mickey Mouse (and other Disney characters), and yes Mother of Pearl dials. The Gerald Genta Ref. G3487.7 has two out of these three defining characteristics with Mickey and mother of pearl featuring prominently in the design. Beyond the gorgeous mother of pearl dial, Mickey’s arms serve as the hour and minute hands, adding a little bit of quirkiness to the design. If you are a Genta collector, this is a must have.
Gerald Genta Retro Classic Blue Mother of Pearl Dial Ref. G.3614
Price: $5,00-$5,500, Case Size: 28mm, Thickness: 12.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 350M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Quartz, Material: Stainless Steel.
If you love Genta’s watches, but cartoon characters on your timepiece isn’t your thing, the Ref. G.3614 Retro Classic Blue Mother of Pearl is a great option. The watch still has the classic Genta look, displaying the time using a jump hour aperture and retrograde minutes with the added allure of a blue mother of pearl dial. With texture that shimmers and shines depending on the light, if you are a Genta collector who is looking for something a little more obscure, the Ref. G.3614 is a good choice.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25686RP
Price: $330,000-$350,000, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold/Platinum.
The most complicated (and possibly the rarest) watch on our list is this very unique Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25686RP. Not only does this unique perpetual calendar sport a two-tone combination of rose gold and platinum (as opposed to the more standard steel), it also features a dial crafted from purple-hued mother of pearl with pink mother of pearl subdials. This watch might not be for everyone, but it’s certainly different and will definitely be a conversation starter.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R
Price: $370,000-$380,000, Case Size: 39.9mm, Thickness: 10.37mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.24mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold.
First of all, let’s get this out of the way – while Patek Philippe classifies the Aquanaut Luce Ref. 7968/300R as a “ladies watch”, we think it can easily be worn by both men and women. Yes it has diamonds and sapphires in the color of the rainbow on the bezel and indices, but it’s 40mm in diameter and who said men can’t have a little fun too! Beyond all the gems on this watch, perhaps the most impressive part of this Aquanaut is the white mother-of-pearl dial that has been engraved with the standard “grenade” pattern seen on pretty much every Aquanaut ever made. It’s so well done, you might not even realize that the dial is mother of pearl upon first glance. Man or woman, the Aquanaut Luce Ref. 7968/300R is one of our absolute favorite watches that features a mother of pearl dial.
Rolex Daytona Tahitian Dial Ref. 116503
Price: $30,000-$32,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Yellow Gold/Stainless Steel.
While Rolex is generally considered to be one of the more traditional, conservative Swiss watchmakers in the industry, they actually have had their fair share of uncharacteristically loud designs over the years, including plenty with mother of pearl dials. Case in point, the stunning Daytona Ref. 116503 with Tahitian mother of pearl dial. Tahitian mother of pearl dials are generally darker and, we would argue, have more of a “wow” factor than traditional white MOP dials. If you are a Rolex collector, a Daytona collector, or both, this is a must have piece.
Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Ref. PFC267-1263800-HA2421
Price: $9,000-$11,000, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 7.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold.
Parmigiani Fleurier has made quite a name for itself recently, thanks in no small part to the sporty Tonda line. Within that collection, the Tonda 1950 skews a little bit more traditional, (think more Calatrava than say Aquanaut or Nautilus). The Ref. PFC267-1263800-HA2421 features a dark mother of pearl dial with a diamond bezel that lends even more visual interest to the piece. If you like Parmigiani Fleurier but want something with a little more “oomph” than their standard offerings, this is a solid option.
A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 “Soiree” Ref. 110.030
Price: $48,000-$52,000, Case Size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 10mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48.2mm, Lug Width: 2-mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: White Gold.
The A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 “Soiree” Ref. 110.030 is extremely special, even among the already rarified world of watches with mother of pearl dials. While some watches on this list had both mother of pearl and guilloche portions of the dial, on the Soiree, the mother of pearl is guilloched. It’s hard to put into words, but the dial just pops in a way that a guilloche or mother of pearl only dial doesn’t. Add Lange’s amazing movement finishing and iconic design and you have a stunner of a watch.